tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71024456919082663982024-03-05T13:45:53.819-05:00VICTORIAN INTERIORS AND MOREVictorian life wasn't quite what you may have thought it was.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.comBlogger39125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-62226902281410823042010-01-01T14:51:00.003-05:002020-07-05T13:07:39.283-05:00A Table of Contents<br />
This site was put together from notes and pictures I had saved from the many books I’d read over the years.<br />
As a favor to members of several online forums, I started putting my notes into cohesive sentences and paragraphs, and I put together this website. It just grew and grew.<br />
Recently I had planned to spruce up and add a bit more, but I found I just didn’t have the free time.<br />
Please check the From the Bookstore Section. Much, but not all, of the information on this site came from those books. If you want to learn more, read them.<br />
<br />
<i>Malfunctioning links have been repaired.</i><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/from-bookstore.html">FROM THE BOOKSTORE</a><br />
A few good books about Victorian life and decor, available from libraries and bookstores.<br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2010/01/doing-laundry.html">DOING THE LAUNDRY</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2008/07/putting-up-stove-1871.html">PUTTING UP THE STOVE-1871</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2008/06/contents-of-house-in-1850s.html">CONTENTS OF A HOUSE IN THE 1850'S</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-kitchen.html">THE VICTORIAN KITCHEN</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-dining.html">VICTORIAN DINING Food of the middle class</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/03/dining-room-circa-1880.html">THE DINING ROOM CIRCA 1880</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/03/front-hall-circa-1880.html">THE FRONT HALL CIRCA 1880</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-decorating-1830-50.html">VICTORIAN DECORATING 1830-50</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-decorating-1850-70.html">VICTORIAN DECORATING 1850-70 </a><br />
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<a href="https://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-decorating-1870-1890-part-i.html">VICTORIAN DECORATING 1870-1890, PART 1 AND INTRODUCTION</a><br />
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<a href="https://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/1870-90-part-iicolors-wallpapers-floors.html">1870-90 PART II, COLORS, WALLPAPERS, FLOORS & WINDOWS</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/decorating-in-1890s.html">DECORATING IN THE 1890'S<br />Colors, wallpapers, flooring and window treatments.</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/bedroom-and-boudoir-circa-1880.html">THE BEDROOM AND BOUDOIR CIRCA 1880</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-bedroom.html">THE VICTORIAN BEDROOM</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-bathroom.html">THE VICTORIAN BATHROOM</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/greek-revival-and-general-information.html">GREEK REVIVAL & 19TH C. HEATING, PLUMBING, ETC.</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/what-house-should-be.html">WHAT A HOUSE SHOULD BE???</a><br />
A humorous excerpt from the book, THE HOUSE THAT JILL BUILT AFTER JACK’S HAD PROVED A FAILURE, published in 1882 <br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/in-victorian-drawing-room.html">IN THE VICTORIAN DRAWING ROOM,</a> a bit about Victorian life.<br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/victorian-home-perhaps-not-quite-what.html">THE VICTORIAN HOME,</a> perhaps not quite what you thought it was<br />
A general background about life in the Victorian home.<br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/life-in-maine-hamlet-1894-1904.html">LIFE IN A MAINE HAMLET 1894-1904</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/life-in-london-1849.html">LIFE IN LONDON, 1849</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/02/view-of-19th-century-architecture-as.html">A VIEW OF 19TH C. ARCHITECTURE AS SEEN FROM 1907</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/06/victorian-view-of-house-of-future.html">VICTORIAN VIEW OF THE HOUSE OF THE FUTURE</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/06/miscelleny.html">MISCELLANY</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/06/servants-quarters.html">THE SERVANT'S QUARTERS </a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/06/parlor-and-drawing-room-circa-1880.html">THE PARLOR AND DRAWING ROOM, CIRCA 1880</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/07/19th-c-american-townhouses.html">19TH C. AMERICAN TOWNHOUSES</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/09/portable-wainscoting-1869.html">PORTABLE WAINSCOTING 1869</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/09/dining-room-ceiling-design-1869.html">A DINING ROOM CEILING DESIGN, 1869</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/10/portieres-1897.html">PORTIERS,1897</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/10/interior-trim-wood-finishes-1897.html">INTERIOR TRIM AND WOOD FINISHES 1897</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/10/1890s-model-kitchen.html">AN 1890'S MODEL KITCHEN</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/10/making-beautiful-home-1870.html">MAKING A BEAUTIFUL HOME 1870</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007/10/womans-idea-of-what-kitchen-should-be.html">A WOMAN'S IDEA OF WHAT A KITCHEN SHOULD BE, 1870</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2007_11_01_archive.html">USING A NEW KIND OF TACK, 1870</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2008/06/american-womans-home-1869_15.html">THE AMERICAN WOMAN'S HOME, 1869</a><br />
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<a href="http://victoriandecorating.blogspot.com/2008/06/contents-of-house-in-1850s.html">CONTENTS OF A HOUSE IN THE 1850'S</a><br />
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<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><br /></span>grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-51746844271632112692010-01-01T14:40:00.002-05:002010-01-01T14:49:47.023-05:00Doing the LaundryFrom <a href=" http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/21829">A Treatise on Domestic Economy</a>, by Catherine Esther Beecher, 1845<br /><br />To do laundry you needed plenty of water. If your water was hard, you'd add lye or soda to it, but not too much, or you'd injure your hands and the clothes. You'd also need an assortment of tubs, a large wooden dipper (metal ones were apt to rust), 2 or 3 pails, a wash board, a clothes line, a wash stick to move clothes around in the tub while boiling, and a wooden fork to take them out.<br />Soap dishes, made to hook on the tubs saved soap and time.<br />You'd need a clothes bag, in which you boiled clothes, an indigo bag made of double flannel, a linen starch strainer, starch (which you made yourself), clothespins (described as cleft sticks), a bottle of dissolved gum Arabic,<br />two clothes baskets, and a brass or copper kettle, for boiling clothes, as iron tended to rust.<br />Catherine Beecher suggested a laundry storage closet, six feet high, three feet deep, and four feet wide, with a lock and key, in which to keep all your paraphernalia. To quote her, <span style="font-style:italic;">If the mistress of the family requests the washerwoman to notify her, when she is through, and then ascertains if all these articles are put in their places, it</span> (the lock and key) <span style="font-style:italic;">will prove useful</span>.<br /><br />Victorians never trusted the help, everything was kept under lock and key.<br /><br />She also noted that: <span style="font-style:italic;">Tubs, pails, and all hooped wooden ware, should be kept out of the sun, and in a cool place, or they will fall to pieces.</span><br /><br />To start:<br />Assort the clothes, and put them in soak, the night before. Never pour<br />hot water on them, as it sets the dirt. In assorting clothes, put the<br />flannels in one lot, the colored clothes in another, the coarse white<br />ones in a third, and the fine clothes in a fourth lot. Wash the fine<br />clothes in one tub of suds; and throw them, when wrung, into another.<br />Then wash them, in the second suds, turning them wrong side out. Put<br />them in the boiling-bag, and boil them in strong suds, for half an hour,<br />and not much more. Move them, while boiling, with the clothes-stick.<br />Take them out of the boiling-bag, and put them into a tub of water, and<br />rub the dirtiest places, again, if need be. Throw them into the rinsing-water, and then wring them out, and put them into the blueing-water. <br /><br />Put the articles to be stiffened, into a clothes-basket, by themselves, and, just before hanging out, dip them in starch, clapping it in, so as to have them equally stiff, in all parts. <br />Hang white clothes in the sun, and colored ones, (wrong side out,) in the<br />shade. Fasten them with clothes-pins. <br /><br />Then wash the coarser white articles, in the same manner. Then wash the colored clothes. These must not be soaked, nor have lye or soda put in the water, and they ought not to lie wet long before hanging out, as it injures their colors.<br />Beef's-gall, <span style="font-style:italic;">(*prepared from the bile from a cow's gall bladder)</span> one spoonful to two pailfuls of suds, improves calicoes.<br />Lastly, wash the flannels, in suds as hot as the hand can bear. Never<br />rub on soap, as this shrinks them in spots. Wring them out of the first<br />suds, and throw them into another tub of hot suds, turning them wrong<br />side out. Then throw them into hot blueing-water. Do not put blueing<br />into suds, as it makes specks in the flannel. Never leave flannels long<br />in water, nor put them in cold or lukewarm water. Before hanging them<br />out, shake and stretch them. <br />Some housekeepers have a close closet, made with slats across the top. On these slats, they put their flannels, when ready to hang out, and then burn brimstone under them, for ten minutes. It is but little trouble, and keeps the flannels as white as new. <br />Wash the colored flannels, and hose, after the white, adding more hot water.<br />Some persons dry woollen hose on stocking-boards, shaped like a foot and<br />leg, with strings to tie them on the line. This keeps them from shrinking, and makes them look better than if ironed. It is also less work, than to iron them properly.<br /><br />Bedding should be washed in long days, and in hot weather. Pound<br />blankets in two different tubs or barrels of hot suds, first well mixing<br />the soap and water. Rinse in hot suds; and, after wringing, let two<br />persons shake them thoroughly, and then hang them out. If not dry, at<br />night, fold them, and hang them out the next morning. Bedquilts should<br />be pounded in warm suds; and, after rinsing, be wrung as dry as<br />possible. Bolsters and pillows can be pounded in hot suds, without<br />taking out the feathers, rinsing them in fair water. It is usually best,<br />however, for nice feathers, to take them out, wash them, and dry them on<br />a garret floor. Cotton comforters should have the cases taken off and<br />washed. Wash bedticks, after the feathers are removed, like other<br />things. Empty straw beds once a year.<br /><br /><br />To Cleanse Gentlemen's Broadcloths <span style="font-style:italic;">(Suits- before there were dry cleaners in every neighborhood)</span><br /><br />The common mode, is, to shake, and brush the articles, and rip out linings and pockets; then to wash them in strong suds, adding a teacupful of lye, using white soap for light cloth; rolling and then pressing, instead of wringing, them; when dry, sprinkling them, and letting them lie all night; and ironing on the wrong side, or with a thin dark cloth over the article, until perfectly dry. <br />But a far better way, which the writer has repeatedly tried, with unfailing success, is the following: Take one beef's-gall, half a pound of salæratus (bicarbonate of soda), and four gallons of warm water. Lay the article on a table, and scour it thoroughly, in every part, with a clothes-brush, dipped in this mixture. The collar of a coat, and the grease-spots, (previously marked by stitches of white thread,) must be repeatedly brushed. Then, take the article, and rinse it up and down in the mixture. Then, rinse it up and down in a tub of soft cold water.<br />Then, without wringing or pressing, hang it to drain and dry. Fasten a<br />coat up by the collar. When perfectly dry, it is sometimes the case,<br />with coats, that nothing more is needed. In other cases, it is necessary<br />to dampen the parts, which look wrinkled, with a sponge, and either pull<br />them smooth, with the fingers, or press them with an iron, having a<br />piece of bombazine, or thin woollen cloth, between the iron and the<br />article.<br /><br /><a href=" http://chestofbooks.com/food/household/Practical-Housekeeping/index.html">Practical Housekeeping</a>, by Estelle Woods Wilcox, published in 1887, (40 years later) gives pretty much the same instructions on doing laundry.<br /><br />If you'd like to delve further into the Victorian laundering process, <a href=" http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/21829">read Miss Beecher's book</a>.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-51571846558810919032008-07-10T19:58:00.001-05:002012-04-24T18:09:32.954-05:00Putting Up The Stove 1871<em>It's getting to be that time of year. Chillier weather approaches, especially here in New England, and it seems the perfect time to reprint this article published in the Manufacturer and Builder, Dec. 1871 issue.</em><br />
<br />
WE do not remember the exact date of the invention of stoves; but it was several years ago. Since then mankind have been tormented, once a year, by the difficulties that beset the task of putting them up, and getting the pipes "fixed." With all our Yankee ingenuity, no American has ever invented any method by which the labor of putting up a stove can be lessened. The job is now almost as severe and vexatious as humanity can possibly endure.<br />
Men always put up their stoves on a rainy day. Why, we know not; but we never heard of an exception to the rule. The first step to be taken is to put on a very old and ragged coat, under the impression that when the operator gets his mouth full of plaster it will keep his shirt—bosom clean. Next, he gets his hand inside the place where the pipe ought to go, and blacks his fingers; then he carefully makes a black mark down one side of his nose. Having got his face properly marked, the victim—usually "paterfamilias" ——is ready to begin the ceremony. The "head of the family" grasps one side of the bottom of the stove, and his wife and his hired girl take hold of the other side. In this way the stove is started from the wood—shed toward the parlor. Going through the door, the chief operator carefully swings his side of the stove around and jams his thumb—nail against the door-post. Having got the<br />
"family comfort" in place, the next thing is to find the legs. Two of these are left inside the stove since the spring before. The other two must be hunted after for twenty- five minutes. They are usually found under the coal. Then the "head of the family” holds up one side of the stove while his wife puts two of the legs in place, and next he holds up the other side while the other two are fixed, and, one of the first two falls out. By the time the stove is on its legs he gets reckless, and takes off his old coat, regardless of his linen.<br />
"Paterfamilias" then goes for the pipe, and gets two cinders in his eye. It don’t make any difference how well the pipe was put up last year, it will always be found a little too short or a little too long. "The head off the family” jams his hat over his eyes, and taking a pipe under each arm goes to the tin-shop to have it fixed. When he gets back, he steps upon one of the best parlor chairs to see if the pipe fits, and his wife makes him get down for fear he will scratch the varnish off from the chair with the nails in his boot-heel. In getting down, he will surely step on the cat, and may thank his stars that it is not the baby. Then he gets an old chair and climbs up to the chimney again, to find that in cutting the pipe off the end has been left too big for the hole in the chimney. So he goes to the wood—shed and<br />
splits one side of the end of the pipe with an old ax, and squeezes it in his hands to make it smaller. The chief operator at length gets the pipe in shape, and finds that the stove does not stand true. Then himself and his wife and the hired girl move the stove to the left, and the legs fall out again. Next it is to be moved to the right. More difficulty now with the legs. Move to the front a little. Elbow not even with the hole in the chimney, and the "head of the family” goes again to the wood-shed after some little blocks. While putting the blocks under the legs the pipe comes out of the chimney. That remedied, the elbow keeps tipping over, to the great alarm of the wife. "Paterfamilias" gets the dinner-table out, puts the old chair on it, makes his wife take hold of the chair, and balances himself on it to drive some nails into the ceiling but in doing this he drops the hammer on his wife’s head. At last he gets the nails driven, makes a wire swing to hold the pipe, hammers a little<br />
here, pulls a little there, takes a long breath, and announces the ceremony concluded. Job never put up any stoves. It would have ruined his reputation if he had.<br />
<span style="color: red; font-size: large;"><br /></span>grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-31931827087004425232008-06-16T08:45:00.004-05:002013-06-29T08:24:59.720-05:00Contents of a house in the 1850'sSome time ago I found a site that listed personal belongings of some early 19th century Virginians as culled from wills or other legal documents.<br />
Following are the listed contents of two wealthy men both of whom died in the 1850's.<br />
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Personal estate of the late Samuel Alsop, 1859,Spotsylvania Co, VA<br />
<br />
Samuel Alsop Jr was born in Spotsylvania County in March of 1776.<br />
Alsop began to accumulate land beginning with an inheritance of acreage from his grandfather. He continued to acquire large land holdings in Spotsylvania and Caroline Counties as well as in other parts of the state. <br />
A noted architect and builder, he oversaw the building of the Old Berea Church in Spotsylvania and is buried in the cemetary.<br />
<em>(original spellings are used)</em><br />
Household furniture <br />
<strong>Parlors </strong><br />
1 Mahogany sofa <br />
1 Cane seat rocking chair <br />
30 ditto chairs <br />
1 small Mahogany table <br />
1 Spring seat sofa <br />
2 small sofas <br />
2 mahogany rocking chairs <br />
16 curtains & fixtures for 6 windows <br />
1 carpet & rug <br />
fender, andirons, shovel & tongs <br />
carpet & rug<br />
fender, andirons, &c. <br />
mantle lamps <br />
<strong>Hall </strong><br />
1 Side board <br />
2 lounges <br />
1 chair <br />
carpet & matting <br />
2 candle stands <br />
<strong>Chamber </strong><br />
1 wardrobe <br />
1 bureaw <br />
looking Glafs <br />
1 mantle mirror <br />
1 lounge <br />
bed & furniture <em>(the bedding,sheets,etc)</em><br />
6 cane seat chairs <br />
2 rocking ditto <br />
1 small table <br />
wash stand &c.<br />
3 window curtains <br />
carpet & rug <br />
<strong>Nursery</strong><br />
1 Bed & furniture <br />
1 lounge <br />
5 flag chairs <br />
1 clock <br />
1 case <br />
1 looking glafs <br />
1 wardrobe <br />
1 bureaw & medicine stand <br />
pine chest, <br />
table & candle stand <br />
2 pair andirons & fenders <br />
6 sad irons <br />
2 small pine tables <br />
3 old chairs <br />
matting in crofs pafsage <br />
<strong>Upstairs <br />Room 1</strong> <br />
3 bedsteads, beds & beding <br />
1 set draws & looking glafs <br />
1 wash stand, pitcher & Ewer <br />
1 table & 2 slop buckets <br />
andirons, fender, &c. <br />
carpet <br />
4 curtains <br />
10 chairs <br />
<strong>Room 2 </strong><br />
2 bedsteads, beds & beding <br />
9 chairs <br />
1 wash stand, Pitcher & <br />
1 small table, pitcher & Ewer <br />
1 table & water bucket <br />
andirons, fender, shovel, & tongs <br />
mantle mirror & pitcher <br />
drefsing table & glafs <br />
carpet & rug <br />
window curtains <br />
<strong>Room 3 </strong><br />
2 beds, beding &c. at<br />
1 trumble bed &c. <br />
1 bureaw & mirror <br />
1 settee <br />
4 chairs <br />
andirons, fender, &c<br />
carpet, rug &c. <br />
wash stand, pitcher, basin <br />
table & bucket <br />
window curtains <br />
<strong>Room 4</strong> <br />
2 Beds, beadsteads, & beding <br />
2 chairs <br />
table & looking glafs <br />
wash stand &c. <br />
andirons & fender &c. <br />
carpet <br />
curtains <br />
1 corner table in crofs pafsage 1 <br />
1 wardrobe <br />
2 trunks & stand <br />
<strong>Passage?</strong><br />
1 bed &c. <br />
2 wardrobes <br />
1 crib &c. <br />
1 walnut chest <br />
1 box <br />
matting <br />
1 arm chair & 6 common ditto <br />
2 half round tables <br />
Cellar<br />
2 silver ladles<br />
22 table spoons <br />
12 desert ditto <br />
3 Sugar tongs <br />
2 butter knives & 2 pickle ditto & forks <br />
4 salt spoons 2 <br />
12 plated forks <br />
2 plated cake baskets <br />
20 glafs <br />
castors <em>(sugar castors,mustard pots, spice dredgers, oil & vinegar bottles)</em><br />
12 knives & forks (horn handles) <br />
12 ditto & ditto (buckhorn handles) <br />
24 ivory handle ditto <br />
6 plane ditto <br />
2 tea set, China & glafs <br />
common castors <br />
ditto cups & saucers <br />
2 sets white China <br />
1 set common blue ditto<br />
goblets, wine glafses &c. <br />
Bratania coffee & Tea pots &c.<br />
Preserve bowl & salver <br />
14 waiters <em>(trays)</em><br />
side board & glafs prefs <br />
3 tin safes <em>(probably a food keeper)</em><br />
1 glafs prefs <br />
1 walnut dinner table & half rounds <br />
1 pine table <br />
14 chairs & small table <br />
1 clock <br />
fender, andirons & shovel & tongs <br />
carpet & mat <br />
6 brafs candle sticks <br />
tin safe, tables & water stand<br />
<br />
To read the complete listing, go <a href="http://resources.umwhisp.org/inventories/virginia/alsop,s.htm">HERE</a>.<br />
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<br />
Below is a listing from the personal estate of Warren A. Wiglesworth, died 1853, Spotsylvania County <br />
He too, was a wealthy man, though not as rich as S.Alsop Jr.<br />
<br />
<strong>New Room </strong><br />
1 bedstead & furniture <br />
toilet table <br />
1 pr andirons, glass, <br />
3 chairs, <br />
underbed & matrass <br />
<strong>Chamber </strong><br />
1 Bedstead & furniture <br />
1 Bed, stead & furniture <em>(his children were planning on taking both of these beds</em>)<br />
1 secretary & bookcase <br />
1 easy chair<br />
1 bedstead <br />
candlestand <br />
1 miror <br />
4 chairs <br />
1 pr andirons<br />
shovel & tongs <br />
Books in bookcase <br />
<strong>Dining Room </strong><br />
1 sideboard <br />
2 folding tables <br />
clock <br />
andirons,<br />
3 chairs <br />
1 shotgun <br />
<strong>Passage</strong><br />
1 crib<br />
8 chairs<br />
1 bench <br />
old books &c <br />
<strong>Parlour </strong><br />
2 Mahogany Tables <br />
andirons <br />
old sofa <br />
8 chairs<br />
Large map of U.S.<br />
1 bench <br />
Table ware, Stone & Tin ware<br />
old books &c<br />
<strong>Room over Parlor </strong><br />
4 beds with bedsteads & under beds <br />
candlestand <br />
washstand <br />
looking glass<br />
carpet <br />
andirons & Tongs <br />
<strong>Passage </strong><br />
1 Chest<br />
5 white counterpanes <br />
4 table cloths<br />
1 table<br />
old trunk <br />
2 chairs <br />
<strong>Old Stairs </strong><br />
2 Beds, steads & underbeds<br />
washstand <br />
andirons<br />
table<br />
tongs & poker <br />
<strong>Garrett </strong><br />
3 chests <br />
2 fenders<br />
old barrels <br />
tin boiler &c <br />
<strong>Kitchen </strong><br />
4 pots <br />
4 ovens <br />
tea kettle <br />
Preserving stove <br />
2 trivits<br />
2 pails<br />
3 trays <br />
1 churn <br />
pothooks <br />
ladles <br />
gridles<br />
skilletts <br />
copper kettle &c<br />
<br />
To read the complete listing go <a href="http://resources.umwhisp.org/inventories/virginia/wiglesworth,warren,a.htm">HERE</a>.<br />
<br />grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-38082863580712154712008-06-15T15:28:00.021-05:002013-03-01T00:33:57.873-05:00The American Woman's Home 1869<em>This book, by Catharine E.Beecher and Harriet Beecher Stowe included a chapter about the ideal home, one which I've always found interesting.<br />I've reprinted most of this chapter below.</em><br />
<br />
In the following drawings are presented modes of economizing time, labor, and expense by the close packing of conveniences. By such methods, small and economical houses can be made to secure most of the comforts and many of the refinements of large and expensive ones. The cottage at the head of this chapter is projected on a plan which can be adapted to a warm or cold climate with little change. By adding another story, it would serve a large family.<br />
Fig. 1 shows the ground-plan of the first floor. On the inside it is forty-three feet long and twenty-five wide, excluding conservatories and front and back projections. Its inside height from floor to ceiling is ten feet. The piazzas each side of the front projection have sliding-windows to the floor, and can, by glazed sashes, be made green-houses in winter. In a warm climate, piazzas can be made at the back side also.<br />
In the description and arrangement, the leading aim is to show how time, labor, and expense are saved, not only in the building but in furniture and its arrangement. With this aim, the ground-floor and its furniture will first be shown, then the second story and its furniture, and then the basement and its conveniences. The conservatories are appendages not necessary to housekeeping, but useful in many ways pointed out more at large in other chapters.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-nSzYUkPvDX9gBFHjBr7Rbu7ppqYwCHJ60FHYjHQKSBo0_4y6hZNsAU7Y3soHyqHa9yapcl8tNCVLhP9gYCjvZ9YHiETNEmf4Ci39WmK-eHb0i0kOfWoN7YuLmfIxlUbCcbyXuKcFUk/s1600-h/BEECHER+HOUSE.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212233868047927266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-nSzYUkPvDX9gBFHjBr7Rbu7ppqYwCHJ60FHYjHQKSBo0_4y6hZNsAU7Y3soHyqHa9yapcl8tNCVLhP9gYCjvZ9YHiETNEmf4Ci39WmK-eHb0i0kOfWoN7YuLmfIxlUbCcbyXuKcFUk/s400/BEECHER+HOUSE.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The entry has arched recesses behind the front doors, (Fig. 2,) furnished with hooks for over-clothes in both--a box for over-shoes in one, and a stand for umbrellas in the other. The roof of the recess is for statuettes, busts, or flowers. The stairs turn twice with broad steps, making a recess at the lower landing, where a table is set with a vase of flowers, (Fig. 3.) On one side of the recess is a closet, arched to correspond with the arch over the stairs. A bracket over the first broad stair, with flowers or statuettes, is visible from the entrance, and pictures can be hung as in the illustration.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBQku5iYcz7Wv5q5I48cJj5wlUgQdXJoZDTTFCIifJsU4kZsX884whE6SqkkXbsvdR0pgU0qTDzO7NuqtwjJxMSjLBTRk-lTkYw0Jpfjp5FMlNiJ85_IOJL32mTkqnICsoYtPWc8Q9S8/s1600-h/39_htm90.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212233872342929186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQBQku5iYcz7Wv5q5I48cJj5wlUgQdXJoZDTTFCIifJsU4kZsX884whE6SqkkXbsvdR0pgU0qTDzO7NuqtwjJxMSjLBTRk-lTkYw0Jpfjp5FMlNiJ85_IOJL32mTkqnICsoYtPWc8Q9S8/s400/39_htm90.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMjcU6V6nu3B4J1M1xGkGRpPtXxmo0TG5fcDabDC8O1yrsnY9AEjsytuvmeBoit5WAgs59PIzYPb0UpjWvY4TJrVNgBBSGHOSZMXdkYG1ZSMRnsENu-FtQDZa_LhbLxDeoRZZ_xhMzu9I/s1600-h/39_htm91.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212233882817757458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMjcU6V6nu3B4J1M1xGkGRpPtXxmo0TG5fcDabDC8O1yrsnY9AEjsytuvmeBoit5WAgs59PIzYPb0UpjWvY4TJrVNgBBSGHOSZMXdkYG1ZSMRnsENu-FtQDZa_LhbLxDeoRZZ_xhMzu9I/s400/39_htm91.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The large room on the left can be made to serve the purpose of several rooms by means of a movable screen. By shifting this rolling screen from one part of the room to another, two apartments are always available, of any desired size within the limits of the large room. One side of the screen fronts what may be used as the parlor or sitting-room; the other side is arranged for bedroom conveniences. Of this, Fig. 4 shows the front side; covered first with strong canvas, stretched and nailed on. Over this is pasted panel-paper, and the upper part is made to resemble an ornamental cornice by fresco-paper. Pictures can be hung in the panels, or be pasted on and varnished with white varnish. To prevent the absorption of the varnish, a wash of gum isinglass (fish-glue) must be applied twice.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYrj3czIdNBegsirBUt-0myTMdAOz9fU8CQp4ejG7GUNjwZkDrATRm_uvsU_644kQbxplmDMGwsJkEEZy8cQiH0-n6xN9u99EZ_kzONhVjANEoB5v9D-wjklBmIn-JpYGK5KGP2Stgys/s1600-h/39_htm92.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212235466737577186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYrj3czIdNBegsirBUt-0myTMdAOz9fU8CQp4ejG7GUNjwZkDrATRm_uvsU_644kQbxplmDMGwsJkEEZy8cQiH0-n6xN9u99EZ_kzONhVjANEoB5v9D-wjklBmIn-JpYGK5KGP2Stgys/s400/39_htm92.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Fig. 5 shows the back or inside of the movable screen, toward the part of the room used as the bedroom. On one side, and at the top and bottom, it has shelves with shelf-boxes, which are cheaper and better than drawers, and much preferred by those using them. Handles are cut in the front and back side, as seen in Fig. 6. Half an inch space must be between the box and the shelf over it, and as much each side, so that it can be taken out and put in easily. The central part of the screen's interior is a wardrobe<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwDFDfEHXSqsdedIzgqe5_aUFPHEFf6bUqzzyJKneQyxr2z24VcVWh67Eop8stbcBzBtiEjN_5xQ74R9kO3ShRdi9cgMMhF3N1wp-x0X_CbxglZQnIsPKN6j-c0_VDyvPNcUKv6dCk0e0/s1600-h/39_htm85_small.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212235470631114370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwDFDfEHXSqsdedIzgqe5_aUFPHEFf6bUqzzyJKneQyxr2z24VcVWh67Eop8stbcBzBtiEjN_5xQ74R9kO3ShRdi9cgMMhF3N1wp-x0X_CbxglZQnIsPKN6j-c0_VDyvPNcUKv6dCk0e0/s400/39_htm85_small.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgop3d5fAZJDg-HjzJ40Cy6qjnOUcfV5jrx9YxSYD4TcMWxODetkaoRDmqsDNTnd2Sajio760m75IZCL2i5xOdtWAqE3qQS6m7N_yjZffge5cKUAvXunCIlc4b_1SjrTu_bXof6GuOZfUU/s1600-h/39_htm86.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212236015642067106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgop3d5fAZJDg-HjzJ40Cy6qjnOUcfV5jrx9YxSYD4TcMWxODetkaoRDmqsDNTnd2Sajio760m75IZCL2i5xOdtWAqE3qQS6m7N_yjZffge5cKUAvXunCIlc4b_1SjrTu_bXof6GuOZfUU/s400/39_htm86.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
This screen must be so high as nearly to reach the ceiling, in order to prevent it from overturning. It is to fill the width of the room, except two feet on each side. A projecting cleat or strip, reaching nearly to the top of the screen, three inches wide, is to be screwed to the front sides, on which light frame doors are to be hung, covered with canvas and panel-paper like the front of the screen. The inside of these doors is furnished with hooks for clothing, for which the projection makes room. The whole screen is to be eighteen inches deep at the top and two feet deep at the base, giving a solid foundation. It is moved on four wooden rollers, one foot long and four inches in diameter. The pivots of the rollers and the parts where there is friction must be rubbed with hard soap, and then a child can move the whole easily.<br />
A curtain is to be hung across the whole interior of the screen by rings, on a strong wire. The curtain should be in three parts, with lead or large nails in the hems to keep it in place. The wood-work must be put together with screws, as the screen is too large to pass through a door.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDfGab2iSJVBwMEOfyU_QDy8BASU2PfXwDDbv_-bhFRD2SBNGoJ1ST8t8Xy9ZrJRcZ3PNcrV5i4WwvcpUye1W2-mVSp-ItiTW6sgZlw4zSf0OglHj7B3Nhyy8y33Ow9QCssaRmhUgR674/s1600-h/39_htm87.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212236662502160306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDfGab2iSJVBwMEOfyU_QDy8BASU2PfXwDDbv_-bhFRD2SBNGoJ1ST8t8Xy9ZrJRcZ3PNcrV5i4WwvcpUye1W2-mVSp-ItiTW6sgZlw4zSf0OglHj7B3Nhyy8y33Ow9QCssaRmhUgR674/s400/39_htm87.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNAkOcQA7dbFW141aYVUdYjXrJYWwoOKpTPmgzTLNl7hanozhEgyF1YI8Gyszd9H27T-PiTo9U_kAwGF28ByAc3h3cEo3t_jA-iA8k9Kkyn45-SUZMknrUk5j05R6bkm_bkkgXax5Jeas/s1600-h/39_htm88.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212236875862787474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNAkOcQA7dbFW141aYVUdYjXrJYWwoOKpTPmgzTLNl7hanozhEgyF1YI8Gyszd9H27T-PiTo9U_kAwGF28ByAc3h3cEo3t_jA-iA8k9Kkyn45-SUZMknrUk5j05R6bkm_bkkgXax5Jeas/s400/39_htm88.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a>At the end of the room, behind the screen, are two couches, to be run one under the other, as in Fig. 7. The upper one is made with four posts, each three feet high and three inches square, set on casters two inches high. The frame is to be fourteen inches from the floor, seven feet long, two feet four inches wide, and three inches in thickness. At the head, and at the foot, is to be screwed a notched two-inch board, three inches wide, as in Fig. 8. The mortises are to be one inch wide and deep, and one inch apart, to receive slats made of ash, oak, or spruce, one inch square, placed lengthewise of the couch. The slats being small, and so near together, and running lengthwise, make a better spring frame than wire coils. If they warp, they can be turned. They must not be fastened at the ends, except by insertion in the notches. Across the posts, and of equal height with them, are to be screwed head and foot-boards.<br />
The under couch is like the upper, except these dimensions: posts, nine inches high, including castors; frame, six feet two inches long, two feet four inches wide. The frame should be as near the floor as possible, resting on the casters.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM4HbfoUzyL1ivup7cGX2Vvo0Wwg2vKeVE4rJ7udki64-G-5ealtQilA1HTV_gdB6IJ0Pj0XTtTL3umWlLR9vT3ufPBV40y0yQsGBJ2ffuoZiPVftPWpok6aII4ASNDO0BcUTiaKZUcf0/s1600-h/39_htm89.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212237484605087154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM4HbfoUzyL1ivup7cGX2Vvo0Wwg2vKeVE4rJ7udki64-G-5ealtQilA1HTV_gdB6IJ0Pj0XTtTL3umWlLR9vT3ufPBV40y0yQsGBJ2ffuoZiPVftPWpok6aII4ASNDO0BcUTiaKZUcf0/s400/39_htm89.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The most healthful and comfortable mattress is made by a case, open in the centre and fastened together with buttons, as in Fig. 9; to be filled with oat straw, which is softer than wheat or rye. This can be adjusted to the figure, and often renewed.<br />
Fig. 10 represents the upper couch when covered, with the under couch put beneath it. The coverlid should match the curtain of the screen; and the pillows, by day, should have a case of the same.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaR9c6tZqsiYaPswpDTG3suy2yBQ9kqKElExQreyeS8_f2-3AaH2je-Qc9-5iDOGQ69m_jEpvkx7puV5eF2PDyeBGp5viukIuI-b25ObYNy7ENKFnCmTL2cjZL2EIPpFtE9HiQO1LcMN8/s1600-h/39_htm84.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212237489981224562" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaR9c6tZqsiYaPswpDTG3suy2yBQ9kqKElExQreyeS8_f2-3AaH2je-Qc9-5iDOGQ69m_jEpvkx7puV5eF2PDyeBGp5viukIuI-b25ObYNy7ENKFnCmTL2cjZL2EIPpFtE9HiQO1LcMN8/s400/39_htm84.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Fig. 11 is an ottoman, made as a box, with a lid on hinges. A cushion is fastened to this lid by strings at each corner, passing through holes in the box lid and tied inside. The cushion to be cut square, with side pieces; stuffed with hair, and stitched through like a mattress. Side handles are made by cords fastened inside with knots. The box must be two inches larger at the bottom than at the top, and the lid and cushion the same size as the bottom, to give it a tasteful shape. This ottoman is set on casters, and is a great convenience for holding articles, while serving also as a seat.<br />
The expense of the screen, where lumber averages $4 a hundred, and carpenter labor $3a day, would be about $30, and the two couches about $6. The material for covering might be cheap and yet pretty. A woman with these directions, and a son or husband who would use plane and saw, could thus secure much additional room, and also what amounts to two bureaus, two large trunks, one large wardrobe, and a wash-stand, for less than $20--the mere cost of materials. The screen and couches can be so arranged as to have one room serve first as a large and airy sleeping-room; then, in the morning, it may be used as sitting-room one side of the screen, and breakfast-room the other; and lastly, through the day it can be made a large parlor on the front side and a sewing or retiring-room the other side. The needless spaces usually devoted to kitchen, entries, halls, back-stairs, pantries, store-rooms, and closets, by this method would be used in adding to the size of the large room, so variously used by day and by night.<br />
Fig. 12 is an enlarged plan of the kitchen and stove-room. The chimney and stove-room are contrived to ventilate the whole house, by a mode exhibited in another chapter.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdgsl3CB1LW_B2AcP6BFFm48giWolM1LgQKoR_0qs8hAyGTKqSKeZ5WjiKtNuxDuE7McDfCHnq758TofkgPNCU9KxYRw2s-TDdrJQRO1GY4Xm3G34GowhSHg7DP-jNllO7Ks1giwc6YY/s1600-h/39_htm83.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212238122101644946" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYdgsl3CB1LW_B2AcP6BFFm48giWolM1LgQKoR_0qs8hAyGTKqSKeZ5WjiKtNuxDuE7McDfCHnq758TofkgPNCU9KxYRw2s-TDdrJQRO1GY4Xm3G34GowhSHg7DP-jNllO7Ks1giwc6YY/s400/39_htm83.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Between the two rooms glazed sliding-doors, passing each other, serve to shut out heat and smells from the kitchen. The sides of the stove-room must be lined with shelves; those on the side by the cellar stairs, to be one foot wide, and eighteen inches apart; on the other side, shelves may be narrower, eight inches wide and nine inches apart. Boxes with lids, to receive stove utensils, must be placed near the stove.<br />
On these shelves, and in the closet and boxes, can be placed every material used for cooking, all the table and cooking utensils, and all the articles used in house work, and yet much spare room will be left. The cook's galley in a steamship has every article and utensil used in cooking for two hundred persons, in a space not larger than this stove-room, and so arranged that with one or two steps the cook can reach all he uses.<br />
In contrast to this, in most large houses, the table furniture, the cooking materials and utensils, the sink, and the eating-room, are at such distances apart, that half the time and strength is employed in walking back and forth to collect and return the articles used.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDptcdENs6D-uy8Nq4G0q6STcfkaBJoBv57YbBLItVKQrewmVhdmdxBjkFfrY4_jon2RcIcpKYO0w3Npxw5BEVn9-jiZ4fIvze5pOWBW1-KXz1rVKV5-ZqdvAi1z7-16ose2btIZaILdk/s1600-h/39_htm81.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212238727168283426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDptcdENs6D-uy8Nq4G0q6STcfkaBJoBv57YbBLItVKQrewmVhdmdxBjkFfrY4_jon2RcIcpKYO0w3Npxw5BEVn9-jiZ4fIvze5pOWBW1-KXz1rVKV5-ZqdvAi1z7-16ose2btIZaILdk/s400/39_htm81.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Fig. 13 is an enlarged plan of the sink and cooking-form. Two windows make a better circulation of air in warm weather, by having one open at top and the other at the bottom, while the light is better adjusted for working, in case of weak eyes.<br />
<br />
<br />
The flour-barrel just fills the closet, which has a door for admission, and a lid to raise when used. Beside it, is the form for cooking, with a moulding-board laid on it; one side used for preparing vegetables and meat, and the other for moulding bread. The sink has two pumps, for well and for rain-water--one having a forcing power to throw water into the reservoir in the garret, which supplies the water-closet and bath-room. On the other side of the sink is the dish-drainer, with a ledge on the edge next to the sink, to hold the dishes, and grooves cut to let the water drain into the sink. It has hinges, so that it can either rest on the cook-form or be turned over and cover the sink. Under the sink are shelf-boxes placed on two shelves run into grooves, with other grooves above and below, so that one may move the shelves and increase or diminish the spaces between. The shelf-boxes can be used for scouring-materials, dish-towels, and dish-cloths; also to hold bowls for bits of butter, fats, etc. Under these two shelves is room for two pails, and a jar for soap-grease.<br />
Under the cook-form are shelves and shelf-boxes for unbolted wheat, corn-meal, rye, etc. Beneath these, for white and brown sugar, are wooden can-pails, which are the best articles in which to keep these constant necessities. Beside them is the tin molasses-can with a tight, movable cover, and a cork in the spout. This is much better than a jug for molasses, and also for vinegar and oil, being easier to clean and to handle. Other articles and implements for cooking can be arranged on or under the shelves at the side and front. A small cooking-tray, holding pepper, salt, dredging-box, knife and spoon, should stand close at hand by the stove, (Fig. 14.)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQSclXYdYvFeu6cFwoBMhUABNi8lPbCwj4K7Vg_xcY4ZyEemAxmqNhhRuUxXUOgcGSf-YjltsCoEKIFJofiEakKH3qaoExgqwoWF4qsT-1me9-c1sXvZe1VxKYMVFYav9sbu5HNaLSbQ/s1600-h/39_htm79.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212239419407249074" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwQSclXYdYvFeu6cFwoBMhUABNi8lPbCwj4K7Vg_xcY4ZyEemAxmqNhhRuUxXUOgcGSf-YjltsCoEKIFJofiEakKH3qaoExgqwoWF4qsT-1me9-c1sXvZe1VxKYMVFYav9sbu5HNaLSbQ/s400/39_htm79.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a>The articles used for setting tables are to be placed on the shelves at the front and side of the sink. Two tumbler-trays, made of pasteboard, covered with varnished fancy papers and divided by wires, (as shown in Fig. 15,) save many steps in setting and clearing table. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEY96d_ClOfmHs_-yJ7chMo8-wwE65_IIZh-f3o7VrusRs_IZYOxsVTe3tASTIyFXro8a6ZXiHF75u_U4zUC66Kz91kaGacjg8vKyTIY4xkbENLbsuqccJPcnU4NUylJ_gaGM6OBspkQU/s1600-h/39_htm77.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212239558625983810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEY96d_ClOfmHs_-yJ7chMo8-wwE65_IIZh-f3o7VrusRs_IZYOxsVTe3tASTIyFXro8a6ZXiHF75u_U4zUC66Kz91kaGacjg8vKyTIY4xkbENLbsuqccJPcnU4NUylJ_gaGM6OBspkQU/s400/39_htm77.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px;" /></a><br />
Similar trays, (Fig. 16,) for knives and forks and spoons, serve the same purpose.<br />
<br />
The sink should be three feet long and three inches deep, its width matching the cook-form. <br />
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Fig. 17 is the second or attic story. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkyK2qlkpx2U3efBNZheeA_tzqcLc6iE9j0D5hcU_loX-Cn_UNu2296jtN0E0NBY9pIiENkFm25Va3JjNSZVVjw03x65P00ndgVlmhswhYok3mjqCK0snmCwA2VfXfX4MBc89NW-my7k/s1600-h/39_htm73.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212240492364448738" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZkyK2qlkpx2U3efBNZheeA_tzqcLc6iE9j0D5hcU_loX-Cn_UNu2296jtN0E0NBY9pIiENkFm25Va3JjNSZVVjw03x65P00ndgVlmhswhYok3mjqCK0snmCwA2VfXfX4MBc89NW-my7k/s400/39_htm73.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The main objection to attic rooms is their warmth in summer, owing to the heated roof. This is prevented by so enlarging the closets each side that their walls meet the ceiling under the garret floor, thus excluding all the roof. In the bed-chambers, corner dressing-tables, as Fig. 18, instead of projecting bureaus, save much space for use, and give a handsome form and finish to the room. In the bath-room must be the opening to the garret, and a step-ladder to reach it. A reservoir in the garret, supplied by a forcing-pump in the cellar or at the sink, must be well supported by timbers, and the plumbing must be well done, or much annoyance will ensue.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdetG15mK08ndDf5vBa0o1WPYpWFNQtjmSml64TTife6ud89qsD1TCxtujqXomQouwzjux801gU1STUkvyYNWmaWP3kLQ_J2vV3NWUhDG3R1CZpmc9plRjEkJUqXQH2XdXaorYFHNVwl4/s1600-h/39_htm75.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212241519308652786" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdetG15mK08ndDf5vBa0o1WPYpWFNQtjmSml64TTife6ud89qsD1TCxtujqXomQouwzjux801gU1STUkvyYNWmaWP3kLQ_J2vV3NWUhDG3R1CZpmc9plRjEkJUqXQH2XdXaorYFHNVwl4/s400/39_htm75.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The large chambers are to be lighted by large windows or glazed sliding-doors, opening upon the balcony. A roof can be put over the balcony and its sides inclosed by windows, and the chamber extend into it, and be thus much enlarged.<br />
The water-closets must have the latest improvements for safe discharge, and there will be no trouble. They cost no more than an out-door building, and save from the most disagreeable house-labor.<br />
A great improvement, called earth-closets, will probably take the place of water-closets to some extent; though at present the water is the more convenient. A description of the earth-closet will be given in another chapter relating to tenement-houses for the poor in large cities.<br />
The method of ventilating all the chambers, and also the cellar, will be described in another chapter.<br />
Fig. 19 represents a shoe-bag, that can be fastened to the side of a closet or closet-door.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXy3leMqfVS37XSMk3-QJwhcPsfPrrZ0v2iYE3ZV38qq7XTmawXencrLgNS3KQc8qhnushiBxse1dWcgB0RXdBq1HYlRSqOlvBSoZh5ZMay9S9lWP2W46QJEaV0PIkGoXgDkxz3awzL9o/s1600-h/39_htm76.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212241520548627890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXy3leMqfVS37XSMk3-QJwhcPsfPrrZ0v2iYE3ZV38qq7XTmawXencrLgNS3KQc8qhnushiBxse1dWcgB0RXdBq1HYlRSqOlvBSoZh5ZMay9S9lWP2W46QJEaV0PIkGoXgDkxz3awzL9o/s400/39_htm76.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Fig. 20 represents a piece-bag, and is a very great labor and space-saving invention. It is made of calico, and fastened to the side of a closet or a door, to hold all the bundles that are usually stowed in trunks and drawers. India-rubber or elastic tape drawn into hems to hold the contents of the bag is better than tape-strings. Each bag should be labeled with the name of its contents, written with indelible ink on white tape sewed on to the bag. Such systematic arrangement saves much time and annoyance. Drawers or trunks to hold these articles can not be kept so easily in good order, and moreover, occupy spaces saved by this contrivance.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-B_oOr92xmlASl3WSxKyUJxm-pqtvTXi5x0V3M3IUIgEyH-vs8YP98gEeREx1N4Rb-WoAB_pze9z2rWNkg-Q-_Tf3tY5zidLsA0tFTPk_UJqLMbXc4KPZcBSoujBq3LZGIbIcIN8DA4/s1600-h/39_htm69.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212243763405846610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-B_oOr92xmlASl3WSxKyUJxm-pqtvTXi5x0V3M3IUIgEyH-vs8YP98gEeREx1N4Rb-WoAB_pze9z2rWNkg-Q-_Tf3tY5zidLsA0tFTPk_UJqLMbXc4KPZcBSoujBq3LZGIbIcIN8DA4/s400/39_htm69.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Fig. 21 is the basement. It has the floor and sides plastered, and is lighted with glazed doors. A form is raised close by the cellar stairs, for baskets, pails, and tubs.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQiLG_cJmyDmCmwvOejxS5Dta5TLbW1lWgh_aOfk2y8ythw0PF6witot3_zx8tAFOJQM-c732NMxkop4GamMRCh1a9JJrGEQXiQccm-z7YHYIiYBi_oNcdzvGBaJZKGHcnPNOZSN7ILs/s1600-h/39_htm71.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212243047341894482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhQiLG_cJmyDmCmwvOejxS5Dta5TLbW1lWgh_aOfk2y8ythw0PF6witot3_zx8tAFOJQM-c732NMxkop4GamMRCh1a9JJrGEQXiQccm-z7YHYIiYBi_oNcdzvGBaJZKGHcnPNOZSN7ILs/s400/39_htm71.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Here, also, the refrigerator can be placed, or, what is better, an ice-closet can be made, as designated in the illustration. The floor of the basement must be an inclined plane toward a drain, and be plastered with water-lime. The wash-tubs have plugs in the bottom to let off water, and cocks and pipes over them bringing cold water from the reservoir in the garret and hot water from the laundry stove. This saves much heavy labor of emptying tubs and carrying water.<br />
The laundry closet has a stove for heating irons, and also a kettle on top for heating water. Slides or clothes-frames are made to draw out to receive wet clothes, and then run into the closet to dry. This saves health as well as time and money, and the clothes are as white as when dried outdoors.<br />
The wood-work of the house, for doors, windows, etc., should be oiled chestnut, butternut, whitewood, and pine. This is cheaper, handsomer, and more easy to keep clean than painted wood.<br />
In Fig. 21 are planned two conservatories, and few understand their value in the training of the young. They provide soil, in which children, through the winter months, can be starting seeds and plants for their gardens and raising valuable, tender plants. Every child should cultivate flowers and fruits to sell and to give away, and thus be taught to learn the value of money and to practice both economy and benevolence.<br />
According to the calculation of a house-carpenter, in a place where the average price of lumber is $4 a hundred, and carpenter work $3 a day, such a house can be built for $1600. For those practicing the closest economy, two small families could occupy it, by dividing the kitchen, and yet have room enough. Or one large room and the chamber over it can be left till increase of family and means require enlargement.<br />
A strong horse and carryall, with a cow, garden, vineyard, and orchard, on a few acres, would secure all the substantial comforts found in great establishments, without the trouble of ill-qualified servants.<br />
And if the parents and children were united in the daily labors of the house, garden, and fruit culture, such thrift, health, and happiness would be secured as is but rarely found among the rich.<br />
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<em><strong>NEXT</strong></em><br />
<strong>The kitchen stove</strong><br />
<em>Another chapter dwells on the care of stoves, furnaces and chimneys. The section about the kitchen range is rather interesting.</em><br />
Those who are taught to manage the stove properly keep the fire going all night, and equally well with wood or coal, thus saving the expense of kindling and the trouble of starting a new fire. When the fuel is of good quality, all that is needed in the morning is to draw the back-damper, shake the grate, and add more fuel.<br />
Another remarkable feature of this stove is the extension-top, on which is placed a water reservoir, constantly heated by the smoke as it passes from the stove, through one or two uniting passages, to the smoke-pipe. Under this is placed a closet for warming and keeping hot the dishes, vegetables, meats, etc., while preparing for dinner. It is also very useful in drying fruit; and when large baking is required, a small appended pot for charcoal turns it into a fine large oven, that bakes as nicely as a brick oven.<br />
Another useful appendage is a common tin oven, in which roasting can be done in front of the stove, the oven-doors being removed for the purpose. The roast will be done as perfectly as by an open fire.<br />
This stove is furnished with pipes for heating water, like the water-back of ranges, and these can be taken or left out at pleasure. So also the top covers, the baking-stool and pot, and the summer-back, bottom, and side-casings can be used or omitted as preferred.<br />
Fig. 37 exhibits the stove completed, with all its appendages, as they might be employed in cooking for a large number.<br />
A large stove that includes a roaster, range, hot water reservoir, and baking compartment, among other amenities. The various features of the stove are labeled in the illustration. <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFo8MZg8NYhrDG4g1JY_r9ARoA4aXj5HgBBsVSfA8BcYErRToQd8rWlz8BWRBtt8RBseu5fK0pQBndvoLJnTuBT0zgK-H8P0YdvTftRAKMKKLMmr6Bvha1wOXqfwORQ6MqjhcbDq8sG5E/s1600-h/36_htm52.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5212247076995173426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFo8MZg8NYhrDG4g1JY_r9ARoA4aXj5HgBBsVSfA8BcYErRToQd8rWlz8BWRBtt8RBseu5fK0pQBndvoLJnTuBT0zgK-H8P0YdvTftRAKMKKLMmr6Bvha1wOXqfwORQ6MqjhcbDq8sG5E/s400/36_htm52.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Its capacity, convenience, and economy as a stove may be estimated by the following fact: With proper management of dampers, one ordinary-sized coal-hod of anthracite coal will, for twenty-four hours, keep the stove running, keep seventeen gallons of water hot at all hours, bake pies and puddings in the warm closet, heat flat-irons under the back cover, boil tea-kettle and one pot under the front cover, bake bread in the oven, and cook a turkey in the tin roaster in front. The author has numerous friends, who, after trying the best ranges, have dismissed them for this stove, and in two or three years cleared the whole expense by the saving of fuel.<br />
<br />
<strong><em>from</em></strong><br />
<a href="http://www.harvestfields.ca/harvest/cookbooks/American/006.htm">The American Woman's Home</a>: or, Principles of Domestic Science<br />
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<br />grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-55372120447482951382007-11-12T04:23:00.001-05:002013-03-01T00:34:23.455-05:00Using a new kind of tack, Jan 1870The first illustration shows how carpet or matting was put down without sewing the pieces together. Recall that in 1870 even even if carpets completely covered a floor wall to wall, they still came in separate rolls that were pieced together in the home.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCmxBmOv7kXoB9XwCUhMHNM_j-eaR_4C_emcG5BGEgLTzVJ6bSBLs-n2lURNHbo9ddSPV3zIM77CO0g0jvT5ktAVMfBexup6VkCexVHiMauWIK_gj-eZcp0CC0Nd6UQd0r6VVl3qMdsdQ/s1600-h/TACKS+ILLUS+,+one.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5131883668159531250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCmxBmOv7kXoB9XwCUhMHNM_j-eaR_4C_emcG5BGEgLTzVJ6bSBLs-n2lURNHbo9ddSPV3zIM77CO0g0jvT5ktAVMfBexup6VkCexVHiMauWIK_gj-eZcp0CC0Nd6UQd0r6VVl3qMdsdQ/s320/TACKS+ILLUS+,+one.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The second illustration shows the edge of a carpet being secured to the floor with the new type of tacks.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1vAeZHELaKckrMHBi3WApKlNXTJlYAGplPSQudtly3Is7Qc9P14TUaPtDot-_e13v3kw1C876f2zO1MXfzzxNYz7ArjzOsV_ICjnRqpeIABW55fHldOeOTCroueJenPIlgR4xOSPRos/s1600-h/00030_TIF6.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5131883659569596642" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1vAeZHELaKckrMHBi3WApKlNXTJlYAGplPSQudtly3Is7Qc9P14TUaPtDot-_e13v3kw1C876f2zO1MXfzzxNYz7ArjzOsV_ICjnRqpeIABW55fHldOeOTCroueJenPIlgR4xOSPRos/s320/00030_TIF6.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The picture shows a window shade secured with the new style tacks. The tacks were also recommended as an excellent substitute for stair-rods.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEireGyAblzI2VsnWc0-Q2YUt8KX3DbFsZBUE80P3CSUrxHjsd6lXbIpx9jV0rp6nrrH7JNKgZeh5oEzU1dqZ7WzCAlxvAA5thyXsIS5j3yZAKC1pIFQ44lwG88Vq1lmlPBXQW1SPHpyWXo/s1600-h/TACKS+ILLUS.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5131883668159531266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEireGyAblzI2VsnWc0-Q2YUt8KX3DbFsZBUE80P3CSUrxHjsd6lXbIpx9jV0rp6nrrH7JNKgZeh5oEzU1dqZ7WzCAlxvAA5thyXsIS5j3yZAKC1pIFQ44lwG88Vq1lmlPBXQW1SPHpyWXo/s320/TACKS+ILLUS.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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<br />grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-48151812236908255542007-10-25T07:33:00.001-05:002009-05-14T18:18:39.734-05:00Portieres, 1897Also from <a href=" http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4502475">How to Build Furnish and Decorate</a>...<br /><br />In portieres, change the color for each opening, even if in the same room, unless an entire color scheme is carried throughout the room in decoration and furniture. Half the artistic effect of an apartment depends upon its portieres, and so it behooves the wise woman to look well to the selection of her draperies. In buying portieres it is not so much a question of money as of good taste. Some of the inexpensive denims answer the purpose quite as well as more costly material. It can be obtained in quite a number of colors ; blue, green, etc. By using the right side for the curtain and the reverse side for a border a very pretty effect is obtained. In many of the new fabrics for portieres changeable effects are seen. A new material called satin lambell shows the two-toned effect. This fabric is much like damask, but it has a wide border and dado, with a design in detached figures in the center It may be bought in a variety of soft shades. In dull rose and reseda green it is most effective. Damask will be much used for portieres for the parlor, and also embroidered silk velours.<br />As for the beautiful liberty velvets they are more in fashion than ever. Dark grounds are used with large designs in lighter shades.<br />A material which looks much like the dress fabric called Bedford cord will be much used for inexpensive portieres. Many of the old-style shawls make very handsome hangings, their soft texture drapes well and in many cases their colors are exquisite.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-78529979164935354942007-10-25T07:13:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:19:18.866-05:00Interior Trim, Wood Finishes, 1897from <a href=" http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4502475">How to Build Furnish and Decorate</a>, 1897<br />The staining of wood is oftentimes necessary when we use whitewood or pine trim to relieve the monotonous or commonplace look which so much woodwork of one color is apt to produce. For a dining-room mahogany makes a rich color. Cherry for parlor and bedrooms is appropriate and harmonizes with most any furniture. Oak stain looks well if the wood has a well marked grain; when this is not the case, or if the woodwork has been painted, we will find it necessary to call the grainer to our assistance. Cherry was a very popular color for interior finish in the line of graining some years ago, and is still imitated to quite an extent in the rural districts. A combination of cherry and oak is a very harmonious and rich finish and relieves the monotony of a continuous color. Walnut has kept pace, side by side, with cherry and oak for the past quarter of a century. The kitchens are generally done in oak or maple. The halls and front doors in walnut, the parlor in white. It is impossible for us to give any set rules in regard to colors for the painting of interior woodwork. You must use your individual judgment, and most of us possess sufficient knowledge, obtained by experience, to choose wisely with a few suggestions from the architect and painter.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-84949811526317830942007-10-25T06:52:00.002-05:002009-12-03T16:55:46.216-05:00An 1890's Model Kitchen<a href=" http://digital.lib.msu.edu/projects/cookbooks/html/authors/author_parloa.html">Maria Parloa</a> was a very popular cookbook author and teacher in the 19th c. The following is her description of a model kitchen.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTBegvtiU02_FI9ZY3iR2zT-aRUWmb4LV53Rh_0Wtd6cBihNN-CZzblFQGf99A6FhyvqQzP89mOPOrWURVhhiV-JsVNtsPbMSngcWiF9JFxVcpJg4LmgHiHIpeUD9ZGJjxTnDgh9VxR4/s1600-h/kitchen+1897.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmTBegvtiU02_FI9ZY3iR2zT-aRUWmb4LV53Rh_0Wtd6cBihNN-CZzblFQGf99A6FhyvqQzP89mOPOrWURVhhiV-JsVNtsPbMSngcWiF9JFxVcpJg4LmgHiHIpeUD9ZGJjxTnDgh9VxR4/s400/kitchen+1897.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5125242763880567938" /></a><br />The size of the kitchen is an important matter. Although the room should be spacious enough to contain sink, range, table, dresser and chairs, and to give ample opportunity for free movements, it should not be so large as to oblige one to make many steps to and from sink, table, range or pantry. A good size is 15x17.<br />The ventilation is a prominent factor of the comfort of not only those who work in the kitchen, but of the entire household. If the room lacks good ventilation, the strength of those who work in it will become exhausted sooner than it should, and they will become unnecessarily irritated. Besides, the odors of cooking, which should pass to the open air, will instead escape to all parts of the house.<br />Every part of the kitchen, pantry and closet, except the ceiling, should be finished in such a way that it may be washed. Nothing is better for the flooring than hard wood. If the floors are to be covered, no better material than lignum can be used. It is soft, clean and durable. Oilcloth is very cold and is the cause of a great deal of rheumatism.<br />It is well to have the woodwork such as to require oiling only, and the walls should be painted a rather light color. When possible, the walls about the sink, tables and range should be tiled. Tiles seem to be rather expensive at the outset, but in the long run it is true economy to use them, as they will last as long as the house. They may be easily kept bright and clean. The time will come when few people will think of finishing a kitchen without them. The English or Dutch tiles should be used, and blue and white should predominate.<br />Lack of table room is a drawback met with in most kitchens. There ought to be an abundance of such room, so that when a meal is being prepared or served there need be no crowding or confusion, and it may be obtained by having two or three swinging tables in the room. When they are not in use they may be dropped.<br />The sink should be large,there is nothing better than iron,with a sloping and grooved shelf at one end, on which to drain dishes. It should not be enclosed. Every dark, enclosed place in a kitchen is a source of temptation to the slovenly. Let the light reach every part of the room. At the right hand of the sink have a long, narrow table containing two drawers for towels. Unless the walls above, below and at the sides of the sink be tiled, they should be finished with hard wood. If tiles be used, have a broad capping of hard wood extend across the upper edge of the top row, in which to put hooks for various small utensils that are in frequent use about the sink. Under the sink have more hooks for dish-pans, dish-cloth, etc.<br />In the center of the kitchen have another table about 3 ½ x 4 ½ feet. This should contain a drawer for knives, forks, spoons and other utensils that are in frequent use in that part of the kitchen. Have a small table also, about the height of the range. This is for use as a resting place for utensils used when griddle-cakes, omelets, waffles, etc., are made. When not in use it may be moved aside. Between the door to the hall and that to the china-closet have a swinging table or a settee table; the latter being that kind which serves as a seat when not in use for ironing or other purposes. Above the table have two shelves for cook-books and other books, and a clock.<br />A portable range can be so placed that it will be possible to walk all around it. It can be run with about half the quantity of coal required for a set range. It responds quickly to the opening or shutting-off of a draught. One's feet do not become heated by standing near it. There are no dark corners. It does away with the necessity of much lifting of heavy utensils. And it can be so managed that there shall be a hot oven at any time of the day.<br />Convenient to the range and sink there should be a large pantryabout 12 ft. x 8 ft. The window should have a wire screen and inside blinds. A large strong table, with two drawers, should be placed before this window. Have hooks on the ends of the table on which to hang the pastry-board, the board on which cold meats are cut, and that on which bread and cake are cut. The rolling-pin, cutters, knives and various small<br />utensils may be kept in one drawer, and spices, flavoring extracts, baking-powders, etc., in the other.<br />The wall at one end of the room should be covered with hooks on which to hang saucepans and other utensils. About one foot from the floor there should be a strong, broad shelf, on which to place heavy pots and kettles. Two feet above it there should be a narrow shelf for the covers of the pots and saucepans. By this arrangement all of these utensils may be kept together and always in sight, and no time need be lost in searching for any of the articles.<br />A number of shelves may be placed between the window and this end of the room, on which to keep materials used very frequently, such as sugar, salt, rice, tapioca, etc.<br />In the frame of the window, but within easy reach, put hooks, on which to hang spoons and an egg-beater.<br />At the lower end of the room have wall-closets built about four feet from the floor. The shelves within them should be about twenty inches wide and the doors should be supplied with locks. Under the closets have a strong rack, four inches high, on which to keep barrels. The rack secures a free circulation of air under the barrels, thus keeping their contents sweet.<br />On one side, running the length of the room, have shelves, beginning a foot from the floor and running as high as the top of the wall-closets. On the lower shelves may be kept buckets and jugs, while the upper ones will accommodate mixing bowls, measuring cups, baking and mixing pans, and, indeed, all of the utensils for which space has not already been provided.<br />At the end of this row of shelves have a place for a towel, so as to avoid the trouble of going to the kitchen whenever the hands require wiping.<br />With this arrangement of the kitchen and pantry the cooking and the washing of dishes can be done in a small space, steps and time can be saved, and half of the kitchen will generally be unused and ready for the servants' table or any other purpose. The points kept in view throughout areconcentration of work, good light and ventilation, ample table room, cleanliness, and the giving of an attractive appearance.<br />It is understood that there is a cellar or cold room convenient to the kitchen.<br /><br />from <a href=" http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4502475">How To Plan Furnish and Decorate</a> 1897<br /><br /><font color="red"><font size="5">Spammers</font>, please note: all comments are moderated. All spam is rejected.</font>grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-61815330592866506742007-10-13T19:02:00.001-05:002013-03-13T07:35:07.301-05:00Making A Beautiful Home 1870MANUFACTURER AND BUILDER showed this window display in its May, 1870 issue. the article stated that any room could be improved by cutting the window larger, to make a low sill, then fill in the window with large panes of clear glass, training flowers and vines to grow about it.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqPqsXbfqmC8Vu6A5SMQ8siIU7avru8Tdhh1btUZhRQjfIWx__gj7Bytav_b_uBAzCe-Ke2vPGKg7wYCif4QIWWSxIdhUjxsoP_UapTTNV2DM_lAtlGSkH5CwldPfSu2J2dr7OQYbfEZo/s1600-h/00160_TIF6.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5120977655671764754" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqPqsXbfqmC8Vu6A5SMQ8siIU7avru8Tdhh1btUZhRQjfIWx__gj7Bytav_b_uBAzCe-Ke2vPGKg7wYCif4QIWWSxIdhUjxsoP_UapTTNV2DM_lAtlGSkH5CwldPfSu2J2dr7OQYbfEZo/s400/00160_TIF6.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
A Ward Case stands in front of the window. Today we might refer to it as a terrarium. Here's an example from the April issue.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPUalY8QaI_i9bhwOlwrOPhBCZ8xMsbebZPIZrJc23XMsOCsP0oRfbv0sMasRns8LyK11GXZ1A4O-G_j9D5tAyyrfllm8Jor1JmbNDz_Lu6rO2J-AUI6owIA7UZrJK2brhGRth0aCVtE/s1600-h/ward+case.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121014656815019810" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPUalY8QaI_i9bhwOlwrOPhBCZ8xMsbebZPIZrJc23XMsOCsP0oRfbv0sMasRns8LyK11GXZ1A4O-G_j9D5tAyyrfllm8Jor1JmbNDz_Lu6rO2J-AUI6owIA7UZrJK2brhGRth0aCVtE/s400/ward+case.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
The April issue also included the following instructions for making the rustic frames that had recently become so popular.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlkAHiD2FDS4-i748mOIIqZ6MyxsdqVCv5dJ7Z_V-MBTE4r67h2MEzxQdbxdI8BGWf34c44s-9qq_XjAhxwtfS5mzJz0xo_5SQG5xgFf58EsQwrk-xgfNfob3Z9GzgQ7z5FF4Zom2dbCc/s1600-h/april+1870++),rustic+frame.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121015361189656370" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlkAHiD2FDS4-i748mOIIqZ6MyxsdqVCv5dJ7Z_V-MBTE4r67h2MEzxQdbxdI8BGWf34c44s-9qq_XjAhxwtfS5mzJz0xo_5SQG5xgFf58EsQwrk-xgfNfob3Z9GzgQ7z5FF4Zom2dbCc/s400/april+1870++),rustic+frame.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
"All that is necessary to construct one of these, or any similar frame, is to get the foundation, a thin board, of proper size and shape, with the inner oval or rectangular form to suit the picture. The edges are ornamented by nailing on branches of hard, seasoned wood, or gluing on pine cones. The corners may receive some device, both to cover the rude joint and to enhance the general effect.<br />
One of the frames illustrated is made of either light or dark wood, neat, thin, and not very wide, with the ends simply broken off; or cut so as to resemble a rough break. The other is white-pine, sawn into simple form, well smoothed, and traced with delicate black lines.<br />
This should be also varnished, when it will take a rich yellow tinge, which harmonizes admirably with chromos, and lights up engravings finely."<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qbw-O81lLvPnMpGzP39wbZ0Txv0ehvk787V6V8VojYVHG1bW1yF3kQppW0rWg9JkTlqCRvbCPjMW7nKwGUbuov_J8fTREY-uPY8Qj-Fg8ulqEcyIhrGyER_QKd-ypuljHLvTlSPCAXI/s1600-h/april+1870,frame+2.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121015485743707970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_qbw-O81lLvPnMpGzP39wbZ0Txv0ehvk787V6V8VojYVHG1bW1yF3kQppW0rWg9JkTlqCRvbCPjMW7nKwGUbuov_J8fTREY-uPY8Qj-Fg8ulqEcyIhrGyER_QKd-ypuljHLvTlSPCAXI/s400/april+1870,frame+2.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Another home beautification project was a fern basket...<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTZjmiHrzBATM39K4MvQWN8NstiN611o1CfV9TlgBcr9CP-KL0vHKLvjvWOsxZsLYyudwvqzf0LVkXs-kQKJKg2EpHkjlB7kNZnnvisSJCThCOxi2T-q8rqqJBy43Hlkyrk2d8M_g9eQ/s1600-h/fern+basket.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121015769211549522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTZjmiHrzBATM39K4MvQWN8NstiN611o1CfV9TlgBcr9CP-KL0vHKLvjvWOsxZsLYyudwvqzf0LVkXs-kQKJKg2EpHkjlB7kNZnnvisSJCThCOxi2T-q8rqqJBy43Hlkyrk2d8M_g9eQ/s400/fern+basket.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
"To make this fern-basket, take a flat piece of board, sawed out to something like a shield, with a hole at the top for hanging it up. Upon the board nail a nice pocket, made of an ox-muzzle, flattened on one side, or make a sort of basket out of stiff wire. Line this with a sheet of close moss, which appears green behind the wire net-work. Then fill it with loose, spongy moss, such as is found in swamps, and plant in it plumes of fern, and various swamp-grasses. They will continue to grow there, and hang gracefully over. It is only necessary to keep the moss damp, and sprinkle the ferns occasionally with a small broom."<br />
And finally..."a flower-stand made of roots scraped and varnished."<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_k3sHqIrY40TtYUcGXJUpEqxlVeRx7HP6nOthUWAP2j7vNeG6UOdvkv1Ew2MXYECMrOdpOoOQojhRbtJlC7Ub2P-SEJ92qaJVk0CnIWvCGXhiapYAWda1KheWvq4wFMF9GSP63zwKlU/s1600-h/april+1870+(1)plant+stand.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5121016044089456482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_k3sHqIrY40TtYUcGXJUpEqxlVeRx7HP6nOthUWAP2j7vNeG6UOdvkv1Ew2MXYECMrOdpOoOQojhRbtJlC7Ub2P-SEJ92qaJVk0CnIWvCGXhiapYAWda1KheWvq4wFMF9GSP63zwKlU/s400/april+1870+(1)plant+stand.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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<br />grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-82993034496862406982007-10-13T18:50:00.002-05:002009-12-03T16:56:36.396-05:00A Womans Idea of what a Kitchen should be , 1870To begin with, I would have a kitchen well lighted; come, yes a great deal of the broad, expansive sunlight coming in boldly, as if it had a perfect right to be there. That would, of course, necessitate large windows. And then I would give as much attention to the ventilation of a kitchen as I would to a sleeping-room. I would have a large circular device suspended over the cooking-stove, with a hole in the centre, and a tube leading to the top of the house, to carry off the savory smells which the process of cooking generates, and prevent them from permeating the whole house.<br /><br />For these smells, however savory and agreeable, are apt to take away something from the keenness of our appetite; or, at least, cause us to anticipate something better than the reality. Then I would have a large sink, with a permanent soap-stone or marble wash-bowl for washing the dishes, and another for draining. I would also have an adjustable pipe, leading from the hot water tank to either of these basins. Besides this, I would have sundry cupboards and closets arranged upon the wall, so as to be tasteful and decorative as well as convenient. <br /><br />Then I would have a space devoted to tiny drawers, such as one sees in a drug store, and labeled in this manner: soda, allspice, nutmegs, cream of tartar, etc., so that at a single glance I could discover just what I wanted, without rummaging to find these things in some out-of-the-way corner, placed there by some careless, untidy Bridget. This would save one a world of care now devoted to instructing every new servant as to all the places of things. Cooking is becoming so complicated nowadays, that one needs all the arrangements, and as many utensils, as a chemical laboratory; and the good architect should give the mater familias a place for everything.<br /><br />from the May 1870 issue of <a href=" http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/ndlpcoop/moahtml/title/manu_vols.html">MANUFACTURER AND BUILDER</a><br /><br /><font color="red"><font size="5">Spammers</font>, please note: all comments are moderated. All spam is rejected.</font>grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-27731517400652087222007-09-14T20:54:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:18:10.218-05:00Portable Wainscoting, 1869<strong>Portable Wainscoting </strong><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuKwDDSnlhW3JMHsI5fHt-hhWdk_mR-EIx78_t552Hatokmof-7xscA7HOokF1HU-w8qd1H1pLzmiZxM1TUVMnPSrYKgVHWB2f_JaHPjD-2Nd_iDfYFuNkt7qav1KAhLRHq-WLltznxs/s1600-h/wainscot.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmuKwDDSnlhW3JMHsI5fHt-hhWdk_mR-EIx78_t552Hatokmof-7xscA7HOokF1HU-w8qd1H1pLzmiZxM1TUVMnPSrYKgVHWB2f_JaHPjD-2Nd_iDfYFuNkt7qav1KAhLRHq-WLltznxs/s400/wainscot.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110243810900430322" /></a><br /><em>The image shows the product in use on the wall, stairs and floor.</em><br />A new product in 1869, strips of wood were glued to a length of flannel cloth. The wainscoting was generally 1/8 inch thick, while that used for flooring was generally 2/3 to ¾ inch thick.<br />It could be rolled, unrolled and kept on stock for sale like carpets. The wood strips were generally narrower than tongue and groove, and combinations of several hardwoods could be used to a pleasing effect. It was noted that it always required a baseboard. <br />Used as a floor covering, it could be laid in various ways.<br />It was described as easy to put up, “being fastened to the wall from the top with a rabbeted moulding or a fixture underneath, and firmly secured by screws or nails through the moulding or nosing to the studding. A rabbeted base secures the wainscoting at the bottom.”<br />It cost about half the price of tongued and grooved hardwood, and slightly more than oil-cloth, and since it was portable, it could be taken up when the owner moved. It could also be used as a countertop material.<br />To clean it, it was advised to use a damp cloth once or twice a week.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-38615668292093341222007-09-14T07:23:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:18:10.218-05:00A Dining Room Ceiling design, 1869<strong>A decorated wooden ceiling for a dining room.</strong><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5H-Ji2bmwfwSgwfRfH8rvPG8ILn-kxHLwfYgestsf97pvOpDO_HDvi5j66d3824NJRIE3OXfGZ7yUaG-OXs1m5wYlPD1aEvKXSwEccn9SCwADfF1jGn9KNNLkpq__w6z8w2mBc9s4n6g/s1600-h/may+1869.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5H-Ji2bmwfwSgwfRfH8rvPG8ILn-kxHLwfYgestsf97pvOpDO_HDvi5j66d3824NJRIE3OXfGZ7yUaG-OXs1m5wYlPD1aEvKXSwEccn9SCwADfF1jGn9KNNLkpq__w6z8w2mBc9s4n6g/s400/may+1869.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5110034822086774114" /></a><br />The room is 18 x 22 feet. The ribs are of clear pine, with a head chamfer covered with narrow pine ceiling, headed, tongued, and grooved. These latter are two inches wide. The four small circular centre pieces consist of carvings in wood; likewise the large centre piece in the middle. The panels are bordered and finished with leaf pattern moulding. The various strips are covered with a coating of shallac of a light color, while the ribs are stained of a darker hue. The carved moldings as well as the raised work of the centre pieces are in gilt. The moulding in the panels consists of a half-round, gilt strip. The effect produced by a combination of a little gilt with the natural colors of wood in one of the most beautiful that can be obtained. Of course, in carrying out a design for a ceiling of this description, the side walls are made to correspond. <br /><br />from...<a href=" http://memory.loc.gov/ammem/ndlpcoop/moahtml/title/manu.html">MANUFACTURER AND BUILDER</a>, May 1869grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-23041784789018002302007-07-08T09:02:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.527-05:0019th C. American Townhouses<em>The following is information about townhouses in several eastern American cities. Most of it dwells on the houses of 1830, with a bit about the changes wrought in floorplans later in the century. Strictly speaking, 1830 is not Victorian, as Victoria was just a princess at the time. I've tried to stay away, for the most part, on the subject of Victorian exteriors on this site, but I found this segment of a book interesting, as I hadn't found anything like it before. </em><br /><br /><strong>New York</strong><br /><em>Exterior of an 1830’s style house, still standing in 1890’s. on the N. side of Washington square.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaxF70uDF9GkeW2pH9xPOoVV7BgVZSXniWt_kYXAR_rDRwlnCVZGzWUNOWKvbni53uuanKvZeJg9FfkXemmOiipUg2HE04cOrxDY130UhV0-oMKFuxyLBOXLp2hZZRjLIxYdRYP86YubU/s1600-h/houses+on+washington+square.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaxF70uDF9GkeW2pH9xPOoVV7BgVZSXniWt_kYXAR_rDRwlnCVZGzWUNOWKvbni53uuanKvZeJg9FfkXemmOiipUg2HE04cOrxDY130UhV0-oMKFuxyLBOXLp2hZZRjLIxYdRYP86YubU/s320/houses+on+washington+square.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084827408110468594" /></a><br /><br />The New York city houses of 1830 tended toward high stoops. To those unfamiliar with the term stoop, it’s the term for the stone steps leading from the pavement to the front door. A small landing would be found at the top. The stair of 1830 would be built with 8 to 13 risers.<br />The front was of plain brick, often with white marble lintels and stoops . Others were of Connecticut brown stone. <br />The design of exteriors and even interiors was simple. The use of extensive plaster or stucco decoration of 30 years before, applied to cornices and ceilings in the Classical style, etc., had disappeared. These elaborate decorations were replaced by one or two handsome details. In many of the houses the doors on the parlor story, and sometimes on the bedroom story, were of mahogany or rosewood veneer. The woodwork around them was of white pine, simply painted white, unornamented.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh__0h7M5tlhRsE5_641pOttPTDRIyM39uEYG6mv-82uejNoIy0FUfDMrCSNI0wrN8qG4RCgWKgP324TeVa-IaxwJMSLPNK3v7fTPGisRKABU7FhVkdc1Jq95CbkTzDVsZg6RoFfbHnVMI/s1600-h/1830+washington+sq.+ny.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh__0h7M5tlhRsE5_641pOttPTDRIyM39uEYG6mv-82uejNoIy0FUfDMrCSNI0wrN8qG4RCgWKgP324TeVa-IaxwJMSLPNK3v7fTPGisRKABU7FhVkdc1Jq95CbkTzDVsZg6RoFfbHnVMI/s320/1830+washington+sq.+ny.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084828112485105154" /></a><br />In both larger and smaller homes, the front basement room served as the dining room.<br />These town houses were similar to those found in London at the time with one difference. In New York, instead of entering the house on the dining room floor and then going upstairs to the drawing room, you entered on the drawing room floor and went down to the dining room.<br />The kitchen would be found in the back half of the basement, with closets and pantries dividing it from the dining room. Sometimes there would be a pass-through in the wall between kitchen and dining room, in other houses there would be a door.<br />In later years, the back yards were dug down so that they were 6 or 8 inches below the kitchen floor, but in 1830 they remained at their original level. Instead, a sunken area was dug out, with stone retaining walls to hold back the earth, and steps leading down into it so that one could enter the kitchen by a back door.<br /><br />The second floor held a large front bedroom with two windows and an adjoining smaller room. The rear of the house had a similar arrangement . The space between the larger bedrooms would hold closets, called “pantries” in those days.<br />When city water was introduced, the small back hall-bedroom, as it was called, was often used as a bathroom. The supply of piped in water was generally limited to this bathroom and a kitchen sink.<br />There were, as yet, no dumb waiters in use, since dining was expected to be done in the basement level next to the kitchen.<br />A cellar would be found below the basement level. It was generally paved with cobblestones. It would be set up with some shelves and perhaps some “hanging shelves”, which were light wooden platforms, hung by strips of wood nailed to the beams overhead.<br />Things were stored in the cellars, as there were few attics. This was because there had begun a trend toward building with what were commonly known as flat roofs. They actually weren’t quite flat. they had a very slight incline to drain away rainwater and they were at the time, usually covered in metal sheathing. Access to the roof was by means of a movable ladder. <br /><br />A house like this, if it had 2 stories of bedrooms above the parlors was called a “two-story house with finished attic”. The parlor story counted as one, the second bedroom story was still called an attic, even if the ceilings were nine or more feet high and there was no slope. Some houses however, did have a slop on the back side roof, making an upper floor bedroom with one 5 or 6 foot high wall on the back and a sloped ceiling.<br /><br /><strong>Baltimore and Richmond</strong><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSOtXLUYw6wZ4oAPjuU_aNm5s6wrlM_egz8DL1a0E30ZKoARVY0VM3gYm0H9A6mU2TQv-sYGFutp5rPHkxwTmnQccjZ1-cLTIQvMANWm_SXqQcGgW6Yxzes5GqHLyGM8WS0-NexpzhZo/s1600-h/southern,+baltimore+plan.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVSOtXLUYw6wZ4oAPjuU_aNm5s6wrlM_egz8DL1a0E30ZKoARVY0VM3gYm0H9A6mU2TQv-sYGFutp5rPHkxwTmnQccjZ1-cLTIQvMANWm_SXqQcGgW6Yxzes5GqHLyGM8WS0-NexpzhZo/s320/southern,+baltimore+plan.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084834997317680738" /></a><br />From the plan you can see that the lot was wider, since lot prices were cheaper than in New York.<br /><br />The front part had one room and the staircase hall , and was usually three stories high with a ground floor 2 or 3 steps above ground level, the drawing room floor and 1 or 2 bedrooms on the 3rd. Floor.<br />The back section would have bedrooms on the second floor. The back stairs in the kitchen lead to these bedrooms and a sort of attic. Sometimes there were 2 stories of bedrooms above the kitchen wing.<br />These houses had no water except for a pump at the end of the back yard. Later, when a city water supply was available, the pump was replaced by a hydrant.<br /><br /><br /><em>The ground floor plan of a Richmond house shows a modified, more expensive version of the above Baltimore house.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidz1G8na8hpnd-Nm15HqNSkZAudPOR64bvfczCnsnJiqIMZSGiplQtlpERTfbi0107xZJVnBMlaqANfTzmpfitegHjYwrFnuKSoNIN000aaMeW-5kQOP5xH4LuNUWy2AbcHVGlHWOLyb8/s1600-h/fig+3+richmond.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidz1G8na8hpnd-Nm15HqNSkZAudPOR64bvfczCnsnJiqIMZSGiplQtlpERTfbi0107xZJVnBMlaqANfTzmpfitegHjYwrFnuKSoNIN000aaMeW-5kQOP5xH4LuNUWy2AbcHVGlHWOLyb8/s320/fig+3+richmond.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084834331597749842" /></a><br /><br /><br />Both the Baltimore and Richmond plans show a more spacious and conveniently planned house than the New York model. New Yorkers were stuck with limited space, and therefore smaller, more expensive lots.<br /><br /><strong>Boston</strong><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvNkFS_iNHKKNt2aFnfQPmTHNBOGtpr1dM7-Fig0qzd8r3kHhRf12tWAXifruEsogbsXf2SlmPoSYR4XxfM2rY8ay6LGD4wHm7QI1KI_yRfQk_Uj-M_Ha4NOyqW6xoktEqx7FGedGQmw/s1600-h/4+boston,+ground+floor.gif"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwvNkFS_iNHKKNt2aFnfQPmTHNBOGtpr1dM7-Fig0qzd8r3kHhRf12tWAXifruEsogbsXf2SlmPoSYR4XxfM2rY8ay6LGD4wHm7QI1KI_yRfQk_Uj-M_Ha4NOyqW6xoktEqx7FGedGQmw/s320/4+boston,+ground+floor.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084832669445406258" /></a><br /> Here’s a plan for a typical Boston town house . Boston had a severe land shortage before they started filling in the Back Bay.<br /><br />The arrangement of the entrance flight of stairs within the front wall of the house is a Boston feature. The first story was raised 5 or 6 steps above the sidewalk. The front room was almost always used as a dining room, with the back room being the kitchen.<br />Beneath this floor was a cellar, raised up halfway out of the ground.<br />The cellar story held the “archway”, which was a way into the kitchen. A delivery boy could ring the bell, and when the door was opened, go down the steep flight of stairs. He’d then go down a corridor, partitioned off of the rest of the cellar, and mount a second flight of steps into the back yard, just opposite the kitchen door.<br />This was Boston version of the Baltimore or Philadelphia alley. The alley was placed under the house instead of beside it. Some Boston houses kept the street level alley, but built upper stories of the house over it.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj46eByQMce_kCe7Scl9AQ1edziwEYc4OtWl26Yj4hdQTDVVgaPse28VaDvCOxasFUpSGaU-1Loj77FCbol00ZNDnEh-Mvv5GmDdvZMYZ9XNwSZiSWCgYSxNfXm6FJXAPXzIMjJTtcvIz4/s1600-h/BOSTON,+2ND+FLOOR.gif"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj46eByQMce_kCe7Scl9AQ1edziwEYc4OtWl26Yj4hdQTDVVgaPse28VaDvCOxasFUpSGaU-1Loj77FCbol00ZNDnEh-Mvv5GmDdvZMYZ9XNwSZiSWCgYSxNfXm6FJXAPXzIMjJTtcvIz4/s320/BOSTON,+2ND+FLOOR.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084835401044606578" /></a><br />This shows the drawing room floor plan of the same house <br />The room back of the staircase was often arranged as a china closet, which may have meant that the Boston family often dined in the back parlor. There was no dumb waiter, but the author of the source book was inclined to think that since Boston tended to take after London ways, that a maid would probably bring the dishes up and down to and from the kitchen, as they did in London at that time. He espoused the view that “ a New York maid or man would consider quite out of the question“. <br />This 1830 Boston house would have had no plumbing or water supply except in the kitchen, and no furnace. When city water appeared in Boston, a bathroom would have quite possibly have been fitted into the ground floor extension or upstairs on a bedroom floor.<br />The cost of this sort of house was about the same as a New York house of the same size, but Boston lots were usually not as deep. Since Boston back yards were much smaller, the laundry was dried on the roof of the one story extension on specially built frames and racks.<br /><br />This is a view of an old style Boston town house, much like the shown plans, only reversed. The steps leading up to the front door were often of wood because they were partially protected from the effects of the weather. In the very expensive homes, the steps would more likely be stone.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZJ2vHKlnR1K7Mb-wm0zhf3y0-pARY0YkSypyBMa0mu6qfsLYGvhq6WTobFX7oa61l0usagPvGfSpSQbQefLRpDNBUHxJH2HZHex4t-3JwbeLvDQTnOXwcodQajMM4i2fUtvj21aiHlE/s1600-h/BOSTON,+OLD+TYPE+HOUSE.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirZJ2vHKlnR1K7Mb-wm0zhf3y0-pARY0YkSypyBMa0mu6qfsLYGvhq6WTobFX7oa61l0usagPvGfSpSQbQefLRpDNBUHxJH2HZHex4t-3JwbeLvDQTnOXwcodQajMM4i2fUtvj21aiHlE/s320/BOSTON,+OLD+TYPE+HOUSE.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084835809066499714" /></a><br /><br /><strong>Philadelphia</strong><br />In the three previous houses the dining room was generally on the floor below the drawing room, but in Philadelphia the living rooms were all placed on the same floor, and this floor was usually at or close to street level.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGgP3A1hZFZO5AuWe_v3EEnQXedm9wo54kUmoMlXMKQm7iWtP3HSG_S_5E26mXcaivzqUXtupmtrV0PcS7TKHKn9WO8yhvrJWgYKyBmu30zAL9pYGXC5unBi5HU76wnYQGT1C4FrJ2CH0/s1600-h/PHILLY+GROUND+FLOOR.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGgP3A1hZFZO5AuWe_v3EEnQXedm9wo54kUmoMlXMKQm7iWtP3HSG_S_5E26mXcaivzqUXtupmtrV0PcS7TKHKn9WO8yhvrJWgYKyBmu30zAL9pYGXC5unBi5HU76wnYQGT1C4FrJ2CH0/s320/PHILLY+GROUND+FLOOR.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084836384592117394" /></a><br />The Philadelphia town house had access to a back alley that ran the length of the block. Each back yard had a gate into this alleyway through which deliverymen could reach the kitchen.<br /><br />The front, therefore would have only one door, with no more than 5 marble steps leading to it. The front end of the hall tended to be only as wide as necessary, allowing for a large parlor. The hallway would widen towards the back to allow for the stairs to the upper floor, making the back parlor somewhat narrower. This back parlor was often used as the dining room. Often there would be a pair of facing closets between the front and back room, forming a sort of short passage. Two sets of doors were also sometimes used.<br />More expensive homes had a larger back building, and the dining room would often be placed there. These larger examples could also have a service or butler’s pantry between the dining and kitchen spaces.<br />The back building was usually only one story high, so the staircase hall was usually well lit from the windows on the landings.<br />Philadelphians also had more building room than New Yorkers and Bostonians with more spacious rooms and more natural light.<br /><br /><em>Rear View of Houses at Eighth and Spruce Streets, Philadelphia.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCeiEw_VwFS3RxGKMdtaZjW8EBoR4_mrr3aRjnzd9Mwck5uMp7jcG1-nCjueskETque8o_sglZbb-PcF2dG9HPVP_0sZ_CN0gVIlydX3g8lhQTg_poTzDsnsrnyoA2BUk3JSPxckFGj8o/s1600-h/PHILLY+8TH+AND+SPRUCE.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCeiEw_VwFS3RxGKMdtaZjW8EBoR4_mrr3aRjnzd9Mwck5uMp7jcG1-nCjueskETque8o_sglZbb-PcF2dG9HPVP_0sZ_CN0gVIlydX3g8lhQTg_poTzDsnsrnyoA2BUk3JSPxckFGj8o/s320/PHILLY+8TH+AND+SPRUCE.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084836805498912418" /></a><br />The house on the left is the corner house on the block. The entrance has been placed on the side street shown here. The long brick wall running along the street encloses a somewhat larger than normal back yard and the back building is larger than most, apparently constructed in 3 sections.<br /><em>Group of Houses at Third and Locust Streets, Philadelphia; built about 1810.<br />These houses are from an earlier period.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioQHJ8KQjYZCAHimbwWNYyXBnyHBYrm9qi5oDk99gOQI3W3WGdN6CIOm_5JHvAA9iVYZUb-ZqmoPQ3HCfCAWID-f2x5YSO7bUQnGmdddg6Sx94Pi6FDFNgC98_cJ-1VMDidDBjUwBkoIs/s1600-h/PHILLY+3RD+AND+LOCUST.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioQHJ8KQjYZCAHimbwWNYyXBnyHBYrm9qi5oDk99gOQI3W3WGdN6CIOm_5JHvAA9iVYZUb-ZqmoPQ3HCfCAWID-f2x5YSO7bUQnGmdddg6Sx94Pi6FDFNgC98_cJ-1VMDidDBjUwBkoIs/s320/PHILLY+3RD+AND+LOCUST.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084837277945314994" /></a><br /><br /><strong>Double houses</strong><br />Wealthier families in cities could afford double houses, or houses with rooms on both sides of the entrance hall. Their lots tended to run from thirty-seven to fifty feet in width. <br />Apparently not nearly as many examples of those were built in New York, compared to cities like Philadelphia and Baltimore. Even crowded Boston had more of them than New York.<br />C. Astor Bristed, author of The Upper Ten Thousand: Sketches of American Society, put his typical wealthy New Yorker into a house 3 rooms deep and 27 feet wide. He explained that the house stood on a corner lot, and so had windows in the second of the three bedrooms. The author of the source for this article notes that;"anyone who knew New York about 1845, will remember how unusual was the house with four or five windows in one story of its front. Still, such houses were known."<br /><em>This example of a New York double house stood on Washington Place and in the 1890’s was no longer a private dwelling.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxt_kfgJsvQVBgU-VgxMVSVaOiE8f4Bi2qEKtKmms_GdMa04sOgI2W-sqdeQPK4ps6Ax8f5QBa_aQd5ZkaUvtHJPS0ZoBeKA6STJHgtAATV14cslYuA-jkgsU12L6hTF5X4TQyz-sXR0/s1600-h/WASHINGTON+PLACE,+NY.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyxt_kfgJsvQVBgU-VgxMVSVaOiE8f4Bi2qEKtKmms_GdMa04sOgI2W-sqdeQPK4ps6Ax8f5QBa_aQd5ZkaUvtHJPS0ZoBeKA6STJHgtAATV14cslYuA-jkgsU12L6hTF5X4TQyz-sXR0/s320/WASHINGTON+PLACE,+NY.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084837943665245890" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAPszZvJF0EpeXFk3nTQ557yiKtIho-b7uvXXJUGtWGzkcFQlHW93ZaN_-CPJiUrXRkqQLFBE4RL2IMutBTraboi5MMCgMCE7JqY_hbE-EKUA68qrxELNEpQBwpHs-kbBjnx_h96pE3Gs/s1600-h/BOSTON+DOUBLE+HOUSE.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAPszZvJF0EpeXFk3nTQ557yiKtIho-b7uvXXJUGtWGzkcFQlHW93ZaN_-CPJiUrXRkqQLFBE4RL2IMutBTraboi5MMCgMCE7JqY_hbE-EKUA68qrxELNEpQBwpHs-kbBjnx_h96pE3Gs/s320/BOSTON+DOUBLE+HOUSE.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084838235723022034" /></a><br />Here is an example of a Boston double house. The lot was about 40 feet wide. A New York double house would be similarly set up, but without the rounded bow window. The windows were described as “swell fronts” and are mainly a Boston feature, though there were a few built in New York.<br /><br /><br /><br />You can compare the Boston and other houses to the drawing room floor of an old London house.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oiREjR1qJ75E6MW3VCeEFsdU0y6WZcRi-reyikeYQUEij78HGrjM94CrDoqlQGtUjYRmvnl4qShAuKqbT3JwCifdP8bAk79ENPH5dW-3G9eHtmSAbZZt7fLckbkasuEiEoWt1TLTW-s/s1600-h/OLD+LONDON+HOUSE.gif"><img style="float:right; margin:0 0 10px 10px;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5oiREjR1qJ75E6MW3VCeEFsdU0y6WZcRi-reyikeYQUEij78HGrjM94CrDoqlQGtUjYRmvnl4qShAuKqbT3JwCifdP8bAk79ENPH5dW-3G9eHtmSAbZZt7fLckbkasuEiEoWt1TLTW-s/s320/OLD+LONDON+HOUSE.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084838806953672418" /></a><br /><br /><br />This shows the first floor, while the entrance to the house would be on the ground floor, together with the dining room. This particular example shows a very long extension because it was used as an art gallery. Normally the extension would only be about 15 feet long.<br /><br /><strong>The Next Step</strong><br />The next step in the evolution of the new York town house was basically the same plan as the first one shown at the top of this page, with the addition of a vestibule and a back room.<br />This room was called the "third room," the "tea-room," and often the " extension." This room originally was a one story addition, though later on it became a part of the original conception of the house.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsetJg1SP9ePEJHmvUAvKlbRvULR6tMw9gZBEyJ6BjkzvwKfOTdhZfA4MzYb3FKKXepw6VTLGIyxMTyHf-Qr-AQLNAFL2znFV7JLrO8dh4PCRFQlV5eplXQMcSf-sTwZWk-Zlni73Zezs/s1600-h/9+ny+1860+ground+floor.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsetJg1SP9ePEJHmvUAvKlbRvULR6tMw9gZBEyJ6BjkzvwKfOTdhZfA4MzYb3FKKXepw6VTLGIyxMTyHf-Qr-AQLNAFL2znFV7JLrO8dh4PCRFQlV5eplXQMcSf-sTwZWk-Zlni73Zezs/s320/9+ny+1860+ground+floor.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084839962299875058" /></a><br /><em>New York, 1860, ground floor</em><br />This sketch shows the abandonment of the wall between the two parlors. In place of the wall, we see columns dividing the space. One reason for this was the fact that the central room no longer had windows, so that by removing the wall, it was now part of the windowed front room. At first there was an arch or transom in this divider, but eventually that disappeared leaving one long room, with one centered fireplace.<br />The back room eventually came to be used as a dining room, and cupboards and a dumb-waiter would be installed in the enclosed back end of the hall.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNWVfRzA_0dcdQZW5KCWExO9rYoj-rLZGlFDuNiFZN7gBJCFrX40vyDS84f_7HgUoRj-5O2v5NvNgfeQZ3RXnbOqMK19aaUdsVjTW6Q3KREKgH6S8I-QrgacYOaANhQuOn2Lx098sH7oA/s1600-h/ELSIE+DEWOLFE+1914+HER+PARLOR+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNWVfRzA_0dcdQZW5KCWExO9rYoj-rLZGlFDuNiFZN7gBJCFrX40vyDS84f_7HgUoRj-5O2v5NvNgfeQZ3RXnbOqMK19aaUdsVjTW6Q3KREKgH6S8I-QrgacYOaANhQuOn2Lx098sH7oA/s320/ELSIE+DEWOLFE+1914+HER+PARLOR+2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084841293739736834" /></a><br />This photo is from a later period, but happens to illustrate the 2 parlors becoming one with the use of dividing columns. The fireplace in the inner room seems to be unused. The area has no windows. To gain more light, and give the feel of a more open space, the homeowner has installed a set of French doors on the back wall. One opens to the “back room” which has been set up for dining. It’s unclear if the stationary section is clear glass or mirrored. <br />In older houses, where there were 2 parlors and a back room, the house would be about 57 feet long, but once the two parlors started being replaced with one longer room in newer houses, the longer room tended to shrink to a length of 34 feet or less. The additional 15 feet or so of back room brought the total length to about 50 feet.<br />At the same time that these changes were being made on the first floor, the upper floors were also extended to the full length of the house, making 3 bedrooms on each floor.<br />The use of this floor plan predominated in New York for about 30 years<br /><em>The second floor of an 1860 New York townhouse</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNctyy4iyeQvwjaRZOelwms1T_DOn2Ux1s-wbqQcS4osFxq5j69TfQGIJ_m_CX3kVcmJX1b2Qv_aah0Sm6zZhr_pzh01NwLf_qFiQ1EMNrwnk3mvqSAQj2pJ7GFQ1Q5tbB-bBxahfU3Bo/s1600-h/10-1860+second+floor.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNctyy4iyeQvwjaRZOelwms1T_DOn2Ux1s-wbqQcS4osFxq5j69TfQGIJ_m_CX3kVcmJX1b2Qv_aah0Sm6zZhr_pzh01NwLf_qFiQ1EMNrwnk3mvqSAQj2pJ7GFQ1Q5tbB-bBxahfU3Bo/s320/10-1860+second+floor.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084842161323130642" /></a><br />The small center rooms were easily equipped with sinks for washing. The passageway connecting the bedrooms was lined with cupboards. The two small rooms could be used either as bedrooms, a sewing or sitting room, or, as shown here, a bathroom.<br /><br />If the house was deeper, the space between the front and back bedrooms was increased. Often the bathroom would be placed in the middle of the house between the closets. In this case a light shaft was installed for light and ventilation.<br /><br /><em>Finally, a townhouse plan from 1893</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVailzDYaEkufEg_iB7qFTRRkzBmiJUL7hFCprD_k2nfAMfSCj8qvWHlYtGUxUeaGFDBm8NJpbFTEklS_KZWOIyl9Ss6A_WxlO43G0bKDzINU43wIXjFu7f-_yr1ID0tmvHrGX2B7yqBs/s1600-h/11+modern+house.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVailzDYaEkufEg_iB7qFTRRkzBmiJUL7hFCprD_k2nfAMfSCj8qvWHlYtGUxUeaGFDBm8NJpbFTEklS_KZWOIyl9Ss6A_WxlO43G0bKDzINU43wIXjFu7f-_yr1ID0tmvHrGX2B7yqBs/s320/11+modern+house.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5084844815612919586" /></a><br /><br />From<br /><a href=" http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4463424">HOMES IN CITY AND COUNTRY</a>, Russell Sturgis<br />1893grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-88116651455018171972007-06-25T00:32:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.527-05:00VICTORIAN VIEW OF THE HOUSE OF THE FUTURE<strong>The house of the 20th c. as described by a visionary of the 19th</strong> <br /><br />The Twentieth-Century Dwelling<br /><br />The typical dwelling of the twentieth century has not been built yet, but we are near enough to it to be able to forecast, at least in a general way, what it will be like. It will be made of concrete, or some similar material that will be comparatively unaffected by the weather and that will provide thorough protection<br />against changes in the external temperature. On the outside the building will, of course, be tinted and decorated to suit the taste and means of the owner. Inside it wi1l be given a hard, durable, smooth finish that will not hold dust and that will be impervious to moisture. Not only walls and ceilings but floors will be finished in<br />this way, and at a moment's notice the furnishings can be taken out and a room or the whole house washed down with a stream from a hose and wiped dry with the utmost ease.<br />The lighting of the twentieth century dwelling will be by diffusion from tubes of electrified vapor that will give an even and soft illumination all over the house- an illumination that, in many respects, will be better than daylight. But it is in respect to the regulation of atmospheric conditions that the twentieth century<br />house will possess the most decided advantages over the houses we live in now. The heating and cooling of the air as it will be brought in through screened openings will be done automatically by electricity. There will be electric heaters in winter and refrigerating coils in summer, and the interior of the dwelling, if the occupants so desire, will be kept at an even temperature the year round. Thus it will be possible to have any climate to order- warm or cool, moist or dry - and no doubt the adjustment of these conditions to individual needs will be an important part of the therapeutics of the future. If families cannot agree upon a uniform<br />climate for the entire house, each member of the family can have the sort of climate he or she requires in his or her individual apartments. <br />The twentieth-century kitchen will delight the heart of the careful housewife. It will be as clean and perfect in all its fittings as a laboratory for the most delicate chemical processes, and, indeed, it will be a laboratory rather than a kitchen. Cooking by electricity will be an exact science. Along one side of the tiled room will be a series of asbestos-lined doors, with thermometric indicators on each door. Put in your materials properly prepared- that is where the art<br />will come in- set the thermostat at the given mark for simmering, stewing, boiling or baking, leave it so for a stated time, and there you are! Food cooked to perfection, and no dust, no dirt, no surplus heat, no steam, no odor. Who would not be a cook in the electric kitchen when the twentieth century house shall be built?<br /><br />this was published in Harper's Weekly in 1896.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-77641501551589856902007-06-25T00:18:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.528-05:00MISCELLENY<strong>INTERIORS</strong><br /><br />A well equipped Victorian kitchen should have a pot board or shelf between the legs of the table. Often equipment also hung on rack above. If possible, a marble topped table for rolling pastry should be included.<br />Kitchen dressers, or as we would call them in America today, cabinets, were usually built in to the walls of the room or fitted into an alcove. In England they were often painted chocolate brown or bottle green.<br /><br />Plasterwork was expensive well into the 1700’s, but by the Victorian era it had become the cheapest most reliable finish. Wooden paneling had become a status symbol, and if one could not afford the real thing, one could simulate it with paint effects or anaglyptic paper embossed with wood-grain patterns. The full height paneling of the gothic revival<br />period was rare for most of the 19th c., because it made the room so dark. Towards the end of the century, with the introduction of electric light, the very wealthy could and did have oak paneling.<br />The Queen Anne revival introduced a new kind of paneling that was often painted off-white to complement bright chintzes and William Morris papers. They were the smallish<br />square panels that ran ¾ up the wall with a display rail on top. This was first done in Britain, America lagged behind in returning to painted woodwork.<br /><br />The ideal for woodwork was the authoritative oak, but since it was expensive cheaper woods were often grained to look like it. Doors were often grained or stenciled to imitate marquetry. Upstairs doors would not be grained.<br /><br />For door and window trims and other interior woodwork, white pine was often recommended by architects because it was the cheapest. Quoting a source from 1884: “It may be stained, if too light the transparent stains merely darken the wood and do not conceal the natural grain. Under no circumstances try to imitate oak or walnut by graining. Such shams deceive no one and are in the worst taste. If we use paint for interior work let us use it frankly, carefully selecting the color, and avoiding a shiny surface, a flatted or dull finish being preferable“.<br /><br />Another source, published the same year declared; ‘The panels of doors, etc., may be tinted to give a good effect, It is fashionable just now to lay on a pale French gray to the principal parts of the woodwork, and then make the panels a shade or two darker‘. <br /><br />I thought it interesting that several books noted that a bedroom should have space for a bed, so that it need not be placed in front of a window or a closet, which leaves one to believe this must have been a not unusual condition.<br /><br /><strong>EXTERIORS</strong><br /><br />The final quarter of the 19th c was the era of the wide front or side porch, called in those days, a veranda, and it was regarded as a “particular American feature”<br /><br />From a mid 1880’s source….<br />“……Naturally the more expensive houses were the first to get the benefit of the architectural inspiration drawn largely from England. But now that English gables and dormers have spread so widely, now that we realize the beauty of our own colonial architecture, and that the Queen Anne craze is subsiding, so that only its best features remain, the less ambitious dwellings must not be left to the mercy of those builders whose ideas of beauty are limited to scroll-saw brackets and French roofs. ……”<br /><br /> “We have discovered that considerations of cleanliness do not require us to paint our houses white, which, even with the addition of green shutters, is hardly satisfactory. “<br /><br />Writers had been criticizing the monotony of white houses with green shutters, or blinds, for the past 30 years. They would continue to do so for another 30, during which time householders continued painting their houses white with green shutters.<br /><br />The Gothic style was more correctly known as Pointed, and the Greek was also called Horizontal, though a source from the day pointed out that the American house was built more in the Roman style than the Greek. Moreover, the Italianate style had subcategories like Tuscan and Venetian. During this period of architectural history people were also building in the Colonial, or more properly known, Georgian, the Queen Anne and in something that was referred to in several books as the American style. Just quite what the American style was has eluded me.<br /><br /><br />In a book published in 1908, the author looked back with modern eyes at the styles of just a few years past.<br />“The houses of 1880-1900 had only portholes punched through the side of the house wherever there seemed to be a chance to destroy a restful space, and these holes were sometimes accentuated by making all the sash lines invisible from the outside by painting them in dark colors.”<br /><br />I’ve enjoyed the writings of a noted 19th c American architect, E.C.Gardner.<br />From 1875<br /><br />. You may have learned that life is a succession of compromises. Building in New England certainly is. No sooner do we get nicely fortified with furnaces, storm-porches, double windows, and forty tons of anthracite, than June bursts upon us with ninety degrees in the shade. Then how we despise our contrivances for keeping warm, and bless the ice-man! We wish the house was all piazza, and if it were not for burglars and mosquitoes, would abjure walls and roof and live in the open air. Just here is our dilemma. We go "from Greenland's icy mountains to India's coral strands" and back again every twelve months, whether we will or no, and are obliged to live in the same house through it all. It's really a desperate matter. I've been to the ant and the beasts and the birds. They recommend hibernating or migration, but our wings are too short for the one, our fur too thin for the other!<br />Seriously, you must not forget to prepare for extremes of climate. Fortunately the walls that most thoroughly resist the cold are effective against the heat. The doors and windows—the living, breathing, seeing, working part of the house—demand the twofold provision. You must have double windows in winter, to be taken off (laid away and more or less smashed up) in summer; outside blinds to ward off the summer sun, which may, in their turn, be removed when we are only too glad to welcome all the sunshine there is. The vestibules—portable storm-porches are not to be tolerated—must also be skilful doorkeepers, proof against hostile storms, but freely admitting the wandering zephyrs.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-28703260197862039662007-06-24T23:32:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.528-05:00THE SERVANT'S QUARTERSServant's quarters were generally overlooked in decorating and homemaking books. Ella Rodman Church was unusual in that she devoted a whole chapter to them, albeit a very short one.<br />The servants’ quarters would generally be found on the third, or top floor of houses. The stairs to this floor would often be covered in an old Venetian carpet runner, or even just bare, stained and varnished wood, which was “not at all necessary to be ashamed of”.<br />This floor could also hold other family or guest bedrooms and perhaps a storeroom.<br />It had been noted by some, that in many moderate houses the servant’s room had no comforts of any kind. Ella Rodman Church voiced the opinion that a person who worked hard all day should had a right to the comfort of a “clean and at least moderately soft bed,….. and if she has a pleasant, comfortably appointed room to retire to, she will be likely to take all the more pains with herself and her work.”<br /><br />Pillow shams were considered to be out of place, but the bed should be furnished with clean pillow cases and sheets. The blankets could be gray, which were half the price of white ones. A warm comforter should also be provided. A bureau should be available, for the girl’s bedlinens and belongings. A tasteful red or blue calico coverlet could cover the bed. If there were two servants, she advised that it would be preferable to have two single beds rather than one large one, as long as the size of the room allowed it. Two beds would prevent discomfort and quarreling.<br /><br />Pitchers and washbowls, along with the necessities for washing should be supplied so that the maids wouldn’t have to wash themselves in the kitchen. A good supply of towels should also be provided.<br />An inexpensive or rag carpet should be provided and curtains to match the bedspread.<br />Other furnishings should include a table of some kind, a low chair and one or two higher ones. If there was no closet, there should be a row of nails upon which to hang clothes.<br />A few pictures on the walls would be a pleasant touch and “make a servant feel that she has been considered beyond the mere necessaries of life“.<br />Mrs. Church also makes note that: “A serviceable pin-cushion on the bureau will till a void that is usually gaping in this class, while a receptacle for pins that would otherwise find their way to the floor might save the mistress's stores from unlawful raids“<br />Finally…..<br />“The heat that comes up from below will usually make the servants' room warm enough to prevent water from freezing in it; and this, with the comfortable kitchen for a sitting-room, will be all that is necessary“.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-54991868263751685982007-06-24T09:46:00.001-05:002013-03-13T07:36:50.093-05:00THE PARLOR AND DRAWING ROOM, CIRCA 1880<strong>"The comedy was that so many of these rooms were alike"...</strong>A.E.Richardson<br />
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Who can not recall the huge, towering bouquets of dried grasses in gaudy china vases on the mantel; the numerous family photographs on the walls, in a bleak margin of ghastly white, enlivened, perhaps, by a coarse chromo given as a premium by the vapid periodical that is piled up in back numbers on the table ; the ugly horsehair or brocatelle sofa; the tapestry carpet, combining all the colors of the rainbow ; the showy curtains of coarse lace ; the "fairy basket," filled with artificial flowers, suspended somewhere ; the hideous plaster busts of popular men ?<br />
The entrance hall of such a house is usually furnished with oilcloth and a map of the United States; the best bedroom has a "cottage set," fearful with highly colored flowers and gilding, and the other bedrooms have whatever they can get. Crocheted mats and tidies, of all sizes, shapes, and denominations, overrun everything, like weeds ; and it is quite possible that such works of art as cone frames and wax flowers under glass are added to the other things that should not be. In all this melange there will probably not be a single growing thing, nor a bit of the woods near by, to give a touch of nature. <br />
<strong><em>From, How to Furnish a Home by Ella Rodman Church, 1882</em></strong><br />
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But here I must protest against fluffy wool mats scattered about the tables, antimacassars of lace, worsted, or other work hung loosely over the backs of the chairs and sofas, velvet-covered brackets, with useless fringe fixed on with brass-headed nails, on which too often are placed trumpery bits of Dresden or other china, in the shape of dogs, cats, or birds. The wool mats and velvet-covered brackets are nothing but traps for dirt and dust, while the loose antimacassars are an endless source of untidiness and annoyance. <br />
<strong><em>From, Decoration & Furniture of Town Houses by Robert W. Eddis, 1880</em></strong><br />
<br />
Church and Eddis were two highly regarded decorationg authorities of their age, Mrs.Church being American, Mr. Eddis, English. Decorating advice from both countries is interchangeable. One finds the same “ do’s and don’t’s” on both sides of the Atlantic.<br />
Most of this article is repeated from their books as they were written. Again, you’ll see that in some cases woodwork was painted in others, not.<br />
On the question of a chair rail or dado in the drawing room, it was felt by some, generally, that the drawing room should not sport a dado. Cabinets, bookshelves and other unequally sized furnishings would look better against a wall decorated as a single unit rather than against one cut in two by the dividing dado. A frieze, however, would be good addition. Of course, the dado or no dado ruling depended in the size and proportions of the room in question. <br />
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<em>1882 parlor mantle</em><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINkFZxtP6B_5E5GMKMgUCE6HXKkTtzr4f9wR5yc3nzOKZykEiT3rtfoMVIENPqwuVDN8rysqkvP6yJoziEwj9jtzv5bXCW32bxnq5xg6thR9U1PV_E9O2096F8rIadFZDwPiQ4AbfKJQ/s1600-h/ER+CHURCH+PARLOR+MANTEL1882.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079668261852450002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiINkFZxtP6B_5E5GMKMgUCE6HXKkTtzr4f9wR5yc3nzOKZykEiT3rtfoMVIENPqwuVDN8rysqkvP6yJoziEwj9jtzv5bXCW32bxnq5xg6thR9U1PV_E9O2096F8rIadFZDwPiQ4AbfKJQ/s320/ER+CHURCH+PARLOR+MANTEL1882.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
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One drawing-room in a large house was described this way, ….“a rich and effective treatment of the wall would be with a low panelled dado of dark black, with a delicate inlaying of ivory-toned ornament, the doors and general woodwork being painted to match, the general wall surface painted bright warm-coloured golden yellow, and powdered all over with a flower pattern or diaper of a darker tone of golden brown, the frieze being coloured in a delicate vellum or ivory tone, with arabesque or figure decoration in black, the cornice treated with delicate shades of brown and green, and the ceiling slightly tinted to match the frieze”. It should also be noted that when black was used, it was often advised that it be a matte finish, not a glossy one.<br />
<br />
More descriptions of drawing rooms from this 1880 period follow, from Mr. Eddis’ book.<br />
<br />
I saw lately a drawing-room of a newly built so-called Queen Anne house, in which the whole of the lower portion of the walls was covered with a good golden yellow pattern paper, the woodwork painted a vellum or cream-coloured white and varnished, and the frieze formed m decorative plaster-work in very slight relief, like Adam's work; the ceiling formed after similar designs, and all slightly tinted like Wedgwood ware. The general appearance was bright and cheerful, and the low tone of colour throughout formed an excellent contrast to the Persian rugs, marquetry furniture, blue and white china, and other decorative objects in the room.<br />
<br />
Drawing-room, about 28 ft. by 18 ft, .and 14 ft. high.Adam's ceiling, in low relief, tinted in ' Wedgwood ' colouring ; the cornice relieved in somewhat stronger tones ; the walls hung with ' brocade' paper of pale Indian blue, divided by pilasters of'Adam's' arabesques, painted in quiet tones of brown, warm greens, and russets, with carved medallions in each. Dado and woodwork of quiet cream tint, with line ornaments in drab and gold.<br />
<br />
Drawing-room, 30 ft. by 18 ft., and 13 ft. 6 in. high.The plain ceiling was divided into three, and ornamented with plaster enrichment in low relief, very lightly tinted, and slightly relieved by gilding, cornice picked out to harmonise with the walls. The walls hung with crimson ground ' brocade' paper, with a pattern in very dull white and gold ; the dado and woodwork black and gold, with margins of rich maroon, next the gilt mouldings of the panels.<br />
<br />
Small drawing-room or boudoir, 12 ft. high. Flat ceiling, panelled out with a painting about 8 ft. by 4 ft. in centre, with low relief ornament outside this. The whole room panelled 9 ft high, with pale wainscot oak; the space above this hung with embossed <br />
leather paper, with pattern in gold, and colours of a light dull green tone. Curtains, silk and wool tapestry. Floor, oak, rather darker than walls, with Oriental carpets. Furniture, dark mahogany; the coverings varied to some extent. A few water-colours hung on the oak panelling; chimney-piece carried up in light oak, with arrangement for bronzes, statuettes in side niches, and spaces for china.<br />
<br />
Another decorative treatment of a small drawing or music-room would be by panelling the lower portion of the walls with a deal dado, delicately painted in yellowish pink or blue, and covering the general wall surface with a golden-toned paper, arranged in panels to suit the proportion of the room, with painted and stencil arabesque patterns on the dividing spaces ; the frieze treated with good figure or ornamental enrichment of canvas-plaster or papier mache' in low relief, painted white, with a groundwork of reddish gold or Bartolozzi engraving tint. The floor might have a border of light ebony and maple or boxwood parquet, with a low-toned Persian carpet in the centre, with easy lounges or divans all round the room for rest and comfort, the centre space being left clear of furniture, so as to allow of ample room for guests passing through to other rooms, or to congregate, whilst listening to song or music. Or the general tone of the wall surface may be of a bright bluish drab-coloured pattern paper, with a frieze of small yellowish diaper pattern, the woodwork throughout being painted in brighter tones of blue, with mouldings and stencil decoration on white, like Wedgwood china.<br />
<br />
<strong>COLOR OF WALLS AND CEILINGS ETC.</strong><br />
In the following excerpt, the author refers to the decoration of earlier, beautifully decorated Adams period ceilings in Britain. Otherwise, the information is also applicable to the US. I’ve seen similar suggestions in American decorating books from the last quarter of the century.<br />
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“It is a somewhat difficult matter in most town houses, where the ceilings are generally plain, and bordered by cornices of inferior design, to treat them with any amount of colour. In houses of the date of Adams, the ceilings have generally some very delicate enrichments all over them, either flowing or arranged in patterns very slightly raised. Whenever these occur, it is well to treat them almost like Wedgwood ware, with, say, light tones of pink, green, grey, or buff, in very delicate tinting ; but where the ceiling is quite flat, it is desirable to tint it a light tone of grey or cream colour, to get rid of the extreme glare of pure white. Next, the cornice, a simple distemper pattern, of a darker shade of the same colour, will often be found effective and useful, or one or two simple lines with stencilled corners. The tinting of the cornices must materially depend upon their design and contour; if plain moulded cornices, they may be tinted in one or two shades, the lighter tones being always at the top or next the ceiling, and gradually darkening off to the wall decoration.”<br />
….Eddis<br />
<br />
The following is from Mrs. Church’s book.<br />
White ceilings and white woodwork should only be used with a light colored wallpaper, but a slight amount of color in the whiting would give the ceiling a more agreeable tint that stark white. If the woodwork in a room is pine, and must be painted, then any nuetral light color would be agreeable and preferable to plain white. It should never be grained to imitate richer woods as the graining is never very good and it tends to peel in spots over time leaving a blotchy effect. Pine could also be shellacked and varnished, but most people preferred to have it painted.<br />
<br />
A French pearl-gray, a warm stone-color, a pale buff, a delicate green, are all beautiful for parlor walls. The faintest suspicion of pink, like the inner lining of some lovely sea-shells, is both pretty arnd becoming, and will go well with most things in the way of furnishing. A frieze of flowers and butterflies would not be inharmonious with this tint; and a dark, almost invisible, green dado, divided, perhaps, by narrow gilt panels, would bear a lighter green in furniture covering. Pale lemon-yellow is a pleasing tint, or a fuller apricot-yellow is very effective, especially with black wood-work. In speaking of the color of a room it is not meant that the walls must be of one single tint, but reference is made to the predominating hue, which exists even when pattern and coloring are complex.<br />
<br />
A pale, dull sea-green goes admirably with a rich crimson or Indian red ; a pale, dull red with deep green ; but they must always be of very different intensity to look well together, and are always difficult to mingle pleasantly. Turquoise ….mixes very sweetly with a pale green ; ultramarine, being a red-blue…… is horrible with green. Pure pale yellow is a very becoming color, and will harmonize with purple; with blue, the contrast is too coarse.<br />
<br />
As lovely a drawing-room as we ever saw in point of color was carpeted with gray felt with a deep dark-blue bordering ; the lounges and chairs were covered with chintz in the most delicate shade of robin's-egg blue….and the remainder was of wicker-work and black lacquer; the heavy pieces of furniture were in black lacquer and gilt; the curtains were of snowy muslin under lambrequins of chintz ; and the rest of the room was made up of vases, tripods, cups, pictures, flowers, and sunshine, till it seemed to overflow with harmonious color…<br />
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Somewhere in the sea of reading a parlor was described that lingers in the mind a warm, glowing, cheerful room, but not in the least glaring ; and, still rarer virtue, it was not expensive. The carpet was in two or three soft shades of red in a mossy pattern ; the walls were cream color with broken red lines in the corners; the curtains were crimson of some twilled material that hung in soft folds. But the furniture, two low sofas and one or two lounging-chairs, was covered with raw silk in rich Oriental colors ; and light chairs and tables broke up all appearance of stiffness. A lovely swinging lamp, with a wine-colored globe shade, hung over the reading-table ; and it was supported by a gilt, triangle, which was also the shape of the candlesticks on the mantel. Here was crimson judiciously used, and yet in sufficient force to make a deliciously inviting apartment<br />
….Church<br />
The following is a description of a wallpaper, from Eddis.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqYADdSNjmXbXY4SwMXjFaaPV7lNJLq274-HDZ2LvMSgtOVerldgtNddXNHrM9rkarHohM00OMCvqBzgPrpoM9-qpOv_45RKPy003pxFs-R0wSWbGFWpIxS4SGf85LQkXH2v1IsnisAcg/s1600-h/00000086-s.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079646580857539602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqYADdSNjmXbXY4SwMXjFaaPV7lNJLq274-HDZ2LvMSgtOVerldgtNddXNHrM9rkarHohM00OMCvqBzgPrpoM9-qpOv_45RKPy003pxFs-R0wSWbGFWpIxS4SGf85LQkXH2v1IsnisAcg/s320/00000086-s.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
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The general tone is a warm creamy yellow, with wall-flower pattern diaper (or diamond) of golden brown, in harmony with the yellow ground; the whole brightened up by the powdering over of the pale pinkish-toned petals or leaves, falling, as it were, from the sprays of almond flowers in the frieze. This frieze with its delicate blue ground and well-coloured sprays, with swallows flitting in and out, forms an exceedingly good contrast with the lower paper, when divided by a simple painted deal moulding or picture rail, painted golden brown and varnished, as suggested in the illustration.<br />
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<br />
<strong>FLOORS</strong><br />
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I've mentioned quite a bit about floor treatments and coverings in other articles, so I won't repeat it. What was written stands true in the 1880 drawing room. I did however, want to relay this short paragraph written by Mrs. Church.<br />
"It must be admitted that many sensible people are quite opposed to uncarpeted floors, and especially to stained floors, on the score of their showing dust and every footmark, as well as the roughness and inequalities of the boards, when not made for this particular purpose."...people liked their wall to wall carpets.<br />
<em>A carpet and accompanying border from 1882</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3QJl55sTdtZJk6RQjr7_yWrLC3-8p9F4FdsPCnkwCypGrPrlsgbrQjgqmt6WUKWWWD9qH-tOtnFkdXvrt1JrSij29WePmzNHKnN-avEd0T6iRn4cy-xiVdV5tBxiXWbwkK0nhaCtyOY/s1600-h/CHURCH,+CARPET+AND+BORDER+1882.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079650446328106018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3QJl55sTdtZJk6RQjr7_yWrLC3-8p9F4FdsPCnkwCypGrPrlsgbrQjgqmt6WUKWWWD9qH-tOtnFkdXvrt1JrSij29WePmzNHKnN-avEd0T6iRn4cy-xiVdV5tBxiXWbwkK0nhaCtyOY/s320/CHURCH,+CARPET+AND+BORDER+1882.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<strong><br />THE FIREPLACE</strong><br />
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The usual mantel-piece is a shelf of white marble, …… and the sooner this cold, unsuggestive surface is decently buried out of sight the better. A plain covering of any kind that harmonizes with the other draperies is a great improvement; and this should reach the bottom of the slab beneath the shelf, and be finished with a fringe. Most elaborate mantel coverings are wrought with crewels, and silks, and applique ; but these are not always in good taste, and should be well considered, before venturing upon them, in connection with the other furnishings. The latest fashion is for wooden mantel-pieces, ….In the parlor the mantel is usually surmounted by mirrors, but shelves for holding vases and other bric-a-brac are admissible. The shelves may be covered with cloth, in colors to harmonize with the drapery of the room if preferred. In Fig. 17 we give an example of treating a mantel-piece with lambrequin and back piece supported by rings on a pole. Vases and plaques standing against the drapery have a good effect. The screen and hanging cabinet in the engraving are from objects exhibited in the rooms of the Society of Decorative Art in this city.<br />
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<em>figure 17</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBxPbl7k1XvzeUlMWYQusyobKSSMmKrDqmPe-3gjLCuIJXecWjemsc8_9IXDZAhTX5Vg6xPS6NAK3fWzG68cVGfEN4fSfz8zBzcSqQcsEOMXlczBL0n6gJl3UY0N1gXXs0SaTY-zqK8c/s1600-h/00000059-s.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079652924524235826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijBxPbl7k1XvzeUlMWYQusyobKSSMmKrDqmPe-3gjLCuIJXecWjemsc8_9IXDZAhTX5Vg6xPS6NAK3fWzG68cVGfEN4fSfz8zBzcSqQcsEOMXlczBL0n6gJl3UY0N1gXXs0SaTY-zqK8c/s320/00000059-s.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>FURNITURE</strong><br />
<em>The following advice is from Mrs. Church</em><br />
A sofa should, if possible, turn toward the fire, so that its occupant may have his face toward the cheerful glow. At the same time, a little wicker-work tableblack and gold, if you willmay hold a lamp for reading.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeX_wuPbRaUpRcbRNHK6W3EJMyN-7nMBDc7EYsExCZjhmEDxMlbW5YjYvQONyvQFN6Y15chNi2PAA5eLuPH3sHC2LAYdm0dMZ4nMwKnxT-fLcYbMIdXbUPtnrqkUGeQvCUWdVpV2GUVE/s1600-h/ER+CHURCH+SOFA+1882.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079658434967276690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijeX_wuPbRaUpRcbRNHK6W3EJMyN-7nMBDc7EYsExCZjhmEDxMlbW5YjYvQONyvQFN6Y15chNi2PAA5eLuPH3sHC2LAYdm0dMZ4nMwKnxT-fLcYbMIdXbUPtnrqkUGeQvCUWdVpV2GUVE/s320/ER+CHURCH+SOFA+1882.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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As to chairs, a couple of good, well-stuffed easy-chairs…….arranged so as to look toward the fire, ought to be sufficient for luxury while six or eight little ebonized and cane-bottomed gossip chairs are the simplest and prettiest "occasional" furniture one can have. The gossip chair has a curved back which exactly fits the natural curve of the body, and the seat slopes gently downward and backward so as to give the best possible support with the least angularity or awkwardness. <br />
With these pretty little clean cane seats, a black wicker-work chair, two easy-chairs, and a sofa, you should have enough places for family and guests in a quiet household.<br />
The ugliest piece of furniture that can be put into the parlor is a piano ; the cottage, or cabinet shape, is tolerable, because less prominent, but the dark, clumsy, obtrusive structure in general use is a perfect nuisance in a small room, and should be gotten as much out of the way as possible. An irregularly shaped room with recesses is delightful for this purpose, if any of them will accommodate it; and, if there are two rooms, let the piano by all means be placed in the farther one. A handsome cover will clothe its dreary aspect with a little beauty, and its loud sounds will be sweeter from the enchantment lent by distance. Some parlors are all piano and carpet; but such apartments can in no sense of the word be called "living-rooms."<br />
For furniture covering,………Raw silk is an excellent material ; and there are many woolen and other stuffs. The soft, pretty cretonnes of endless tints and styles are charming for a cottage parlor, and also for a city one that may be treated as such. The curtains should be of the same material, while a carpet of plain brown felt with a bordering of green, and a mantel-cover of some brown material embroidered with roses and leaves, would make a cheerful room.<br />
A screen also affords good opportunity for the display of home skill in embroidery.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sCz1iYT5hIfjCS8ZffW9odRI55GnQf72SmNegO7NJTcGs9UFUFAt13rczCXAdfelijP2LzA7a5Z8HBpb_vdKSv_sakD26_aLl8-GzkPm2AXpEP8lFKGirwXJw4-w5us41Z7SnIG3uaM/s1600-h/00000062-s.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079654492187298882" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sCz1iYT5hIfjCS8ZffW9odRI55GnQf72SmNegO7NJTcGs9UFUFAt13rczCXAdfelijP2LzA7a5Z8HBpb_vdKSv_sakD26_aLl8-GzkPm2AXpEP8lFKGirwXJw4-w5us41Z7SnIG3uaM/s320/00000062-s.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieyQkCj-44tioTbixSTdyK2p_q7NuxtAxWAfxdzEOgfj8RbwFpV2kNI6c8Ms5FGdcfb1sBGF9oWdKEwSppXgpuudxQWND4C7KaSvu_m709JmMux1PIdPSmEaAZAXee4JGY6U580Q3qb_I/s1600-h/1882+hanging+cabinet.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079655815037226082" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieyQkCj-44tioTbixSTdyK2p_q7NuxtAxWAfxdzEOgfj8RbwFpV2kNI6c8Ms5FGdcfb1sBGF9oWdKEwSppXgpuudxQWND4C7KaSvu_m709JmMux1PIdPSmEaAZAXee4JGY6U580Q3qb_I/s320/1882+hanging+cabinet.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
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A cabinet is usually a handsome piece of parlor furniture…..This is the proper receptacle for all sorts of dainty and fragile things : choice bits of china, carving, or engraving, the numberless little treasures that one picks up along the path of life, and that one does not like to see carelessly handled.<br />
Many parlors as well as purses will not admit of a large piece of furniture … and the small hanging cabinets are both pretty and convenient. These may be made by an ordinary carpenter of common wood, and ebonized at a comparatively small expensethe two little doors painted, if one can paint, in birds and flowers, with a little gilding judiciously added. Where painting is not to be had, panels of Indian red oilcloth decorated in various ways or pieces of embroidery can be used instead. Small, hanging shelves without doors, and a railing across the top, will make a very good substitute.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJUshiFrqjSwd4El35VIx_eytmUBDZWGaUfFOgEexXVLA_oj9do51Y7nJbacP5-v0Wx6OyO0GVsvZx4P7iCgyWifIUcqW7ATl_mgH4ZUygkUScsSg4jD6xKEeGkkcEhm8l9K9OJw7X3eE/s1600-h/1882+hanging+cab..JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079658069895056514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJUshiFrqjSwd4El35VIx_eytmUBDZWGaUfFOgEexXVLA_oj9do51Y7nJbacP5-v0Wx6OyO0GVsvZx4P7iCgyWifIUcqW7ATl_mgH4ZUygkUScsSg4jD6xKEeGkkcEhm8l9K9OJw7X3eE/s320/1882+hanging+cab..JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
Marble-topped tables have very justly been stigmatized as parlor tombstones; and the simplest cover is preferable to one of these cold, polished surfaces. A crimson table-cover gives a warm, bright look to a room ; and the effect is heightened by making it long enough to touch the carpet. What a rich, warmly tinted picture is made by the "Cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet".<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeMv_Mdbdpd0PvSr4UK3aVfJnBJYkioSsLiCO39vPfbD7bpuaarcK6O4p9dDD1ui42KB5CNtbGS0A7_AHHPuAAlJfCpnQDA0JS4W-ygHMNFliXjRyIm4gIRluHeW_A8KzAL6jNznLapY/s1600-h/1880+DRAWING+ROOM+CABINET.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079658963248254114" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqeMv_Mdbdpd0PvSr4UK3aVfJnBJYkioSsLiCO39vPfbD7bpuaarcK6O4p9dDD1ui42KB5CNtbGS0A7_AHHPuAAlJfCpnQDA0JS4W-ygHMNFliXjRyIm4gIRluHeW_A8KzAL6jNznLapY/s320/1880+DRAWING+ROOM+CABINET.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
Parlor tables are of various shapes and sizes ; and, whatever may be said to the contrary by those who condemn center-tables, a goodly sized round table with a crimson cover on it, and on that a handsome lamp, emitting a soft, steady light, and two or three new books and magazines, looks cozy and delightful, and as though the room was really lived in and enjoyed. A small upper cover, being in fact a square formed of small squares of white linen and drawn work alternately, saves the crimson cover as well as the eyes, and can be laundried as often as necessary.<br />
Small corner tables with fancy covers are useful for five-o'clock tea, and, where this is not indulged in, for a great many other purposes, besides being exceedingly pretty and "helping to furnish." Very cheap ones can be bought, made of walnut or of ebonized wood, and apparently well made; these, with the tops covered and fringed, are quite unexceptionable. Felt, velveteen, canvas, satin, are all used for this purpose, and embroidered as fancy dictates.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGkYXuG_1U34sJJZF4_U53hNKMQxp6oBU_aM7g2CL0YUBEtA7TOcgO2unh-qi-lzf3vpixD0iCfYgslxSrDfcTprw7VdhJskdMzy94Kt8mHNa6th6CaHcPDZndHV9NNACncZIsQT80Io/s1600-h/1880+A+HANGING+CUPBOARD.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079657636103359602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixGkYXuG_1U34sJJZF4_U53hNKMQxp6oBU_aM7g2CL0YUBEtA7TOcgO2unh-qi-lzf3vpixD0iCfYgslxSrDfcTprw7VdhJskdMzy94Kt8mHNa6th6CaHcPDZndHV9NNACncZIsQT80Io/s320/1880+A+HANGING+CUPBOARD.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px;" /></a><br />
Brackets, pictures, knickknacks, give a home look to a room ; but, with abundant means, there is such a tendency to overload in these matters that some are disposed to resort to the opposite extreme.<br />
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<strong>MIRRORS AND PICTURES</strong><br />
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Large mirrors in quiet frames, a walnut frame with a gilt line of from a quarter to three eighths of an inch in the middle of the molding, and with perhaps a slight ornament at the corners, is recommended as having a richer effect than a gilt frame. Mantel mirrors are always handsome ; but a long, narrow one in the pier is a by-gone fashion belonging to heavy gilt cornices and immovable window draperies. Small, ornamental mirrors are almost as decorative as pictures, and may be hung in any part of the room.<br />
The subject of pictures is one which opens a wide field for discussion ; and bare, indeed, are the walls that have not two or three of these ''counterfeit presentments" to relieve their bareness.<br />
<em> The next two art works mentioned by Mrs. Church must have been displayed in many a parlor.</em><br />
What pleasure is there, for instance, in contemplating that dreary engraving, " The Death-Bed of Washington," or " Queen Elizabeth signing the Death-Warrant of Essex"? <br />
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<em>I believe the engraving mentioned may have been based on this painting done in 1851</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzX1Iheq4bIYPztKybgLvZIM23DN8d2O5LRV41LdHHANeC0YDiuNBrw0lFk3E5IaC0Hb0SBVk6dqwzgKXxqMfREFcrlcZLtO3Mc_0DJ8iliSc0bO3K5b_Pqn-V7SpacDMI73wjh6VS8Uw/s1600-h/wasington_deathbed.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079661974020328626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzX1Iheq4bIYPztKybgLvZIM23DN8d2O5LRV41LdHHANeC0YDiuNBrw0lFk3E5IaC0Hb0SBVk6dqwzgKXxqMfREFcrlcZLtO3Mc_0DJ8iliSc0bO3K5b_Pqn-V7SpacDMI73wjh6VS8Uw/s400/wasington_deathbed.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<em>And here is Queen Elizabeth signing the death warrant of Essex</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRizFWMbZr0TA779_RqfrH5ZVwj4WTMluHEuN7JOVY5JrfrAYPDb6XfHuouAIs8xoTK5kxqv0rV76VNvSlfb9jsw15n-dSswPcmaV7nOCpiE_9_fl7IZUorgGETBZJT1y3cUwTYF97zUA/s1600-h/zpage220.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5079662794359082178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRizFWMbZr0TA779_RqfrH5ZVwj4WTMluHEuN7JOVY5JrfrAYPDb6XfHuouAIs8xoTK5kxqv0rV76VNvSlfb9jsw15n-dSswPcmaV7nOCpiE_9_fl7IZUorgGETBZJT1y3cUwTYF97zUA/s320/zpage220.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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Yet there are rooms where these are the most cheerful adornments of the Avails. Neither is a picture made up principally of figures in black coats capable of giving the pleasure that a picture should give ; and many dismal representations of an historical character that are fondly supposed to be embellishments cast a gloom over country parlors, and depress the casual visitor.<br />
Many valuable paintings, especially those of the Spanish and French schools, are no better, but rather worse : who, for instance, wishes to see portrayed on the wall the very unpleasant manner in which Cato committed suicide, or the details of a dissecting-room ? A picture that treats of a revolting or gloomy subject, if designed for a mural ornament, should be discarded as not answering the purpose for which it is intended.<br />
Oil paintings are handsomer and more valuable than any other kind of pictures ; but fine oil paintings can only be secured at a price that places them quite beyond the reach of the majority. <br />
Paintings in water-colors, some of which are expensive enough, may often be found at moderate prices by those who understand buying such things ; and, as a rule, they are better suited to moderate rooms than more pretentious pictures in oil. Colored pictures are bright and cheerful-looking, and their moderate use is very effective in a quiet parlor. Steel engravings, on the other hand, are somewhat depressing from their somber tone, and require the neighborhood of warm hues in walls and hangings to be thoroughly pleasing.<br />
Engravings and photographs of the works of the old masters, or of any paintings that educate the eye, are always desirable ; and the low price at which really fine works of art may be purchased brings them within the reach of nearly all who care for such things.<br />
The latter class of pictures look even worse side by side with water-color sketches than do the water-colors with oil paintings; "the print looking cold and harsh beside the water-color sketch, and the sketch seeming unreal and gaudy by the side of the photograph." It is also advised never to hang glazed drawings, when it can be avoided, opposite a window. " The sheen of the glass reflects the daylight and annihilates the effect of the picture behind it."<br />
The frame of a picture should always be subservient to the picture itself, and, except in the case of oil paintings, it is better to have it of noticeable plainness. It should be substantial, but not wider than is absolutely necessary for a look of strength, a slight frame around a heavy picture being particularly objectionable. A walnut frame, with straight lines and a little gilding in the middle of each of the sides, or one of eboriized wood treated in the same way, has an appearance of quiet elegance; and very suitable<br />
frames for engravings and photographs can be made of common pine, painted or covered with velvet.<br />
Steel engravings and water-colors can not, like oil paintings, be framed with the frame close to the picture, and a space of white paper usually intervenes, which commonly makes an ugly and inharmonious spot on the wall. This can be avoided by first having the picture mounted in a passe-partout with a mat of gray or some neutral tint, and then placed in a frame. The required space around the picture is thus secured, while the objectionable expanse of white is avoided.<br />
On the hanging of pictures we are told that, " to see them with anything like comfort or attention, they should be disposed in one row only, and that opposite the eye, or, on an average, about five feet six inches from the floor to the center of the canvas. A row thus formed will make a sort of colored zone around the room; and though the frames themselves may vary in shape and dimensions, they can generally be grouped with something like symmetry of position, the larger ones being kept in the center and the smaller ones being ranged on either side in corresponding places along the line." The cords used to suspend them should match the general coloring of the room ; wires, which have been so much in fashion, give an uncertain look to pictures, as though they had no visible means of support.<br />
<br />
<strong>WINDOW COVERINGS</strong><br />
<em>Finally a few window covering suggestions from Mr. Eddis</em><br />
In the lower sitting-rooms of most town houses it is necessary to have some sort of lower screen or blind, to render the rooms fairly private from the gaze of too curious passers-by. For this purpose all kinds of contrivances have been carried out, from the old wire-gauze blind, with its general dirty and dingy look, and everlasting painted ornament of Greek fret or honeysuckle border, to the curious twisted cane inventions, which are bad in design, and infinitely too spotty and strong in colour to be pleasant accessories in any room, in which artistic decoration of any kind is thought of. Instead, therefore, of these coarse and unsatisfactory arrangements, I suggest that either a pattern of good diaper (<em>note, by this is meant a piece of prettily embellished cloth hung in a triangle, or draped over a simple rod, point downwards</em>.)or good ornament, be done on the lower portion of the window-glass, by the ordinary means of embossing, or that a second sheet of glass containing the pattern which may be done in slight tints be fixed on the inside face ; or, better still, have blinds of what is called jewelled glass in square quarry lights, or good figure or flower decoration in leaded glass, either done in outline, and stained in delicate tones of yellow, or worked out in good stained glass of various colours ; these can be made to any height, and fixed inside the sash so as to be easily removed for cleaning purposes....Blinds fixed to the sashes in this way may be objected to, on the ground that the sash weights will have to be altered to carry the extra weight of the blind, and that when the lower sash is opened the use of the blind is practically done away with ; but the first objection may be got over at the price of a few shillings per window, and if flower-boxes are fixed on the sills outside, made of ordinary zinc, with blue and white tiles inserted in the front, at a cost of from 205-. to 30^. each box, not only will the latter objection be done away with, but the bright and cheery look of low shrubs in winter, and many-coloured and sweet-scented flowers in summer, will add materially to the pleasantness of the room.<br />
I am quite aware that I am offering no new suggestions in these remarks on blinds and flower-boxes. I am simply advocating their much greater use. For, beyond the pleasure to yourselves in the pleasant outlook upon bright flowers, the colour of the tiles and flowers would be grateful spots of life and colour in the dreary monotony of our town streets. All this kind of arrangement will be found much better than the ordinary frame blinds, which are fixed with bolts to the sash-beads, and are troublesome to take down and often in the way, especially when flower-boxes are set outside as I have suggested.<br />
....Eddis<br />
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<a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=5003730">Decoration & Furniture of Town Houses:</a> a series of Cantor lectures delivered before the Society of Arts, by Robert W. Eddis, 1880 <br />
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<a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4502486">How To Furnish a Home,</a> by Ella Rodman Church, 1882<br />
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More pictures are available at<br />
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/grazhe">http://picasaweb.google.com/grazhe</a><br />
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<br />grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-21077621672931179802007-06-17T18:18:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.528-05:00A couple of booksTwo books that I have recently read that have wonderful pictures are:<br /><strong>Authentic Décor, the domestic interior 1620-1920</strong><br />by Peter Thornton<br />and<br /><strong>Victorians at Home </strong><br />by Susan Lansdun<br />I learned a few things I hadn't known from Lansdun's book.<br />In the 1830's people were advised to arrange their furniture so that it looked as though someone had just left the room, with chairs comfortably set by the fire and perhaps a book left open on a table. This was considered a warmer and more welcoming arrangement than the previous practice of having furniture set along the walls, to be later placed near the window or fireplace when needed, then returned to its spot by the wall. This new furniture arrangement allowed the use of heavier tables and chairs. The fact that there had been improvements to heating and lighting were helpful. <br />Poor Queen Victoria found Buckingham Palace so cold that she used to take brisk walks along the great corridor to stay warm.<br />As late as 1880 open fires were still recommended in Britain as the best heating system, in spite of the fact that stoves were used on the European continent and the US. Visitors from these places often commented on the cold English chambers. One visitor to an English country house party complained that his room has too cold in which to pick up a pen, so he decided to go down to the drawing room to be by a fire. When he got there, he found the room overcrowded as everyone else had the same idea.<br />Finally we come to that beloved Victorian plant the aspidistra, also known as the cast iron plant. It seems that the fumes from gaslights killed many Victorian houseplants, but not the tough aspidistra. It was impervious to the fumes.<br />The gas was also another reason for the interest in plants grown in glass cases. The glass protected the plants inside.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-82566416585450984682007-03-06T05:30:00.001-05:002009-05-14T18:22:29.195-05:00THE DINING ROOM circa 1880<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbWY0RhVLavKawmFNZs1Q-dcmbdV5L3KiCQtpWJ7FpJVGvuqcRR9aW4xBuqW8YZRmc1Nbhw5xqhILEBSDXGE2LY7vnZQ7as5JeeXqeQfJfkdoz5h5YIfJdjmSZ4RDO2QAMnIqkAt7N3I/s1600-h/1880+DINING+ROOM+SIDEBOARD.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbWY0RhVLavKawmFNZs1Q-dcmbdV5L3KiCQtpWJ7FpJVGvuqcRR9aW4xBuqW8YZRmc1Nbhw5xqhILEBSDXGE2LY7vnZQ7as5JeeXqeQfJfkdoz5h5YIfJdjmSZ4RDO2QAMnIqkAt7N3I/s320/1880+DINING+ROOM+SIDEBOARD.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038761139415803458" /></a><br /><br /><strong>WALLS</strong><br />Some Americans called the dining room the “eating room”. Ella Rodman Church wrote, “The common practice of furnishing dining-rooms in green has much to do with their cold appearance, for green is eminently a cold color ; and the absence of any play of flame, from the apertures in the wall that usually serve for heating purposes, gives a hard, set look to the stiff belongings“. On the other side of the Atlantic, Robert Eddis pleaded, “but, for goodness' sake, avoid the dreary commonplaceness of light apple and sage greens, which seem to be the only colours thought appropriate for dining-room walls”.<br /><br /><br />One recommendation for the dining room walls was for a darkly painted dado, with a chair rail or painted paneling about 3 to 4 feet high, then paint or paper above to within 2 or 3 feet of the ceiling. It was felt that a warm brown, or chocolate was a good background color for pictures. <br /><br /><br /> Below is a picture of a dining room decorated by Robert Eddis, and his description.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDh1-qCuWLUj15xDj9o84dBcbnMRi1qKSpeWZBSdl9XFXxwECsUw_JZ8q1ERhb86q6PwSSdkTHmIyn2QaX-vCBv_UIMcY6-l22rJ5i7DoBU4fX4D29cR3S5n5Q6zqSb64oiIBlLPkHo0/s1600-h/1880+DINING+ROOM.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDh1-qCuWLUj15xDj9o84dBcbnMRi1qKSpeWZBSdl9XFXxwECsUw_JZ8q1ERhb86q6PwSSdkTHmIyn2QaX-vCBv_UIMcY6-l22rJ5i7DoBU4fX4D29cR3S5n5Q6zqSb64oiIBlLPkHo0/s320/1880+DINING+ROOM.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038757445743928834" /></a><br />“In this room the mantel-piece, with the étagère over, is made to form an important feature of the general design ; the wall space is divided by a high dado or picture rail slightly moulded with ½ inch gas piping under, as a picture rod. The frieze is painted in plain vellum tone of colour, and decorated with stencil pattern enrichment. The woodwork generally is of deal (pine)varnished, the panels of the doors and shutters filled in with stencil decoration in a light shade of brown under the varnish. The general wall surface is hung with an all-over pattern paper of good warm golden brown tone of colour, admirably adapted for pictures. The furniture throughout is executed in Spanish mahogany, and designed to harmonize with the general character of the decoration.<br />The use of what is called a flatting coat, or finishing coat, of paint mixed with turpentine only, for wall surfaces, so as to produce a dull flat or dead surface without gloss, is, I think, a mistake, for this kind of work does not last when exposed to the weather; it shows every mark of dirt, and will not stand washing. This picture-surface, if painted, should not be varnished, but the dado and all woodwork of the doors and windows will be made much more effective if varnished, as I have before recommended. The woodwork should be painted of similar colour, as a rule, to the walls, but of much darker tone in two shades, and the panels covered with good ornament, stenciled on, all of which is inexpensive, and adds materially to the general artistic effect. The broad frieze, above what I call the picture or general wall space, should be much lighter in tone, and here of course there is an opportunity for real art-work. A broad decorative painted frieze, painted in compartments or panels, with figure-subjects, is of course, to my mind, the most desirable finish.”<br /><br />***<br />The American, Mrs. Church, admitted that for the average American homeowner, the illustrations and styles described in decorating books of the day were much too expensive. Chair and picture rails would not be found in a moderately priced American home of 1880.<br />She advised that a large room should have “dark, rich furnishings, while a smaller one requires lighter coloring and style”. Walnut, rosewood and dark mahogany were woods for a large room, while oak and other lighter colored woods were better suited for a smaller room. Many critics of the day suggested the use of crimson in dining rooms, though brown or green were the more often used colors.<br />Church described the following wall treatment. Place a picture rail 12 to 15” below the ceiling and a chair rail about 3 feet off the floor. These should be painted crimson, dulled slightly with Indian or Venetian red, using a flat paint. Between the picture and chair rails paint or paper the wall in a green-gray tint. Use a light olive-green, somewhat darker than the field color, and finish with a crimson line at the top, about one inch wide, of molding or paper. Use a dark, rich, maroon and gold or black and gold in the dado space.<br /><em>An ad for lincrusta</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWEfnhnlVJcds2bcgwQNlEIuOEGakRlaxYn_r-uSqEUUJ0wp5rhukr-5K-OZ2m3d-0AHuXOP1Ez0V68R9lg28sKbDc9qZYZRg-tdWOAtS5b5o13x_4lPKtJ7HP-lYtWBxmIPmcwgrk5fA/s1600-h/1888+ad.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWEfnhnlVJcds2bcgwQNlEIuOEGakRlaxYn_r-uSqEUUJ0wp5rhukr-5K-OZ2m3d-0AHuXOP1Ez0V68R9lg28sKbDc9qZYZRg-tdWOAtS5b5o13x_4lPKtJ7HP-lYtWBxmIPmcwgrk5fA/s400/1888+ad.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038765288354211490" /></a><br />I wanted to point out something on the subject of the chair rail or height of the dado. Nowadays people feel all too often that it must be 3 feet high. This is not necessarily so. In the dining room, most chair backs were approximately 3 feet high, so if they were pushed back against the walls of the room, the chair rail would stop them from causing any damage. If the chair backs were higher, a higher chair rail would be needed. In other rooms, the height of the dado or rail would depend on the overall look desired, they were a decorative element, as opposed to their function in the 18th century, when furniture was ranged along the walls of a room and only pulled out to the center of the room when needed.<br />Further on Mrs. Church points out that since “In all probability, neither chair-rail nor picture-rail will be found in a moderate-sized, inexpensive house, ……crimson lines may be placed to advantage on the flat surface. The wood-work where walls are so colored should be neutral-tinted green or black, with some of the moldings in crimson ; and a bright look would be given to the whole by papering the frieze, the space above the picture-rail, with a gay pattern of birds or flowers“.<br /><br /><strong>FLOORS</strong><br /><br />Eddis advised the householder paint or stain and varnish the floor for 2 or 3 feet all around, then place a good Indian or Persian rug in the center.<br />Mrs. Church felt one could dispense with carpets in a dining room altogether, staining and varnishing the floor and using a drugget in the center under the table. She went on to describe a covering of painted burlap. “This home-made floor covering will look quite like an old-style Turkey carpet if worked in arabesques of light blue and scarlet, with a judicious mixture of black and white, and fringed on two sides with either of the bright colors scarlet being, perhaps, the more desirable. It is a very convenient fashion to do without carpets, for they are perfect locusts to a limited purse, and nowhere can they be better dispensed with than in the dining-room”. She did write that for those who feel they must have carpets, there were new designs with black backgrounds, some with Japanese figures and bordering, which would go well with a red and gold Japanese wall paper. <br />If you read the article about the front hall, you’ll recall that the Japanese style decorative touch was popular.<br /><em>Parquet flooring</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc91uYp-PJaUjwW_JOiSI8ZJmjUt1XqX4gaPJ8lvTefHRzpscniNjfyIFE17ckT43aTEaoaYbwRFuvMVj37ZGwYG63i2HrGeurNGK3Xn0BMpZZXRZChEFDyPI3I1WzXKGiqkeCojNwWFs/s1600-h/CUCH,BPPK+INLAID+FLOOR+WITH+BORDER.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc91uYp-PJaUjwW_JOiSI8ZJmjUt1XqX4gaPJ8lvTefHRzpscniNjfyIFE17ckT43aTEaoaYbwRFuvMVj37ZGwYG63i2HrGeurNGK3Xn0BMpZZXRZChEFDyPI3I1WzXKGiqkeCojNwWFs/s320/CUCH,BPPK+INLAID+FLOOR+WITH+BORDER.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038758051334317586" /></a><br />Church referred to parquet flooring several times in her book.” Parquet or inlaid floors, sometimes known as wood-carpeting consists of narrow strips of oak, ash, walnut, or other hard woods, kiln-dried, and cemented to heavy muslin. An ornamental border and center-piece in contrasted colors usually accompany each design. ……. Parquet borders are often laid in a room, with a carpet in the center. The material may also be used as wainscoting, and even ceilings and walls may be paneled with it. This flooring is a quarter of an inch thick, and can be rolled up like oilcloth”. These wood carpets were used to cover old softwood floors that were unsuitable for staining and varnishing, and I’ve mentioned them before.<br /><em>An ad for "wood carpet".</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVWTJMzBrIWbDrcZ1KteUrARWn-IWkck74D7uWxsGGMgqpWle-tdcxMBTGd0YCcbNHm3opMoRAX3jGAvgAZ9JX5u_tT-otCBHj3ZJzAW4qCrPEK04loXl0_PUnYs-byvzxEJyzPr4ESk/s1600-h/00000134-s.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVWTJMzBrIWbDrcZ1KteUrARWn-IWkck74D7uWxsGGMgqpWle-tdcxMBTGd0YCcbNHm3opMoRAX3jGAvgAZ9JX5u_tT-otCBHj3ZJzAW4qCrPEK04loXl0_PUnYs-byvzxEJyzPr4ESk/s400/00000134-s.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038765614771726002" /></a><br /><br />If you’ve read the previous articles, you’ll know that until the 1870’s homeowners generally covered their floors with carpet, wall to wall. It was in the 1870’ and 80’s that the move toward varnished hardwood floors began. Design critics had been suggesting the use of hardwood floors for some time, but they took quite a while to catch on. Some could not afford to redo their old softwood floors in hardwoods, others liked their carpets.<br />One design critic exclaimed “It is a matter of astonishment to me, to find that there are still a large number of people who are content to keep this exceedingly bad arrangement of floor covering, and who object altogether to having a certain amount of plain floor space all round the sides of the room. In the first place, this covering of the whole surface is unhealthy ; in the second place, it is dirty; and, in the third place, the cost of the carpet is infinitely more than the cost of painting or staining the edges of the rooms.<br />By these last few words, one can safely assume that many were still purchasing new carpeting instead of replacing their old floorboards with hardwood flooring.<br /><br /><strong>FIREPLACES</strong><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJiPdX8Zew4l386SQIjhplSZH9vvJ37Qa7Vl0D24f5vPM40xRZx0SHwxp42y3Ix12jz0HkG_dhjFKMSOqvR_-NziVkmXR1he8fxjDAMPUwqgpL_T8ChksX1dsvVspeHbiJZ0bAj700iYU/s1600-h/1880+DINING+ROOM+CHIMNEY+PIECE.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJiPdX8Zew4l386SQIjhplSZH9vvJ37Qa7Vl0D24f5vPM40xRZx0SHwxp42y3Ix12jz0HkG_dhjFKMSOqvR_-NziVkmXR1he8fxjDAMPUwqgpL_T8ChksX1dsvVspeHbiJZ0bAj700iYU/s320/1880+DINING+ROOM+CHIMNEY+PIECE.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038758983342220834" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisFziUYE56UPqEbYoWJEPRI1ygeVqY6VE6FpdBEfWH8ZE2HFrmcDNw0-lECmR3GjHsPFUOB4Q5R2bM_z51oDsmFmSwKsPSZax7IpoRr35k9So2EaY6UhGVImhMPgVVFzahg-oX4g0jw-E/s1600-h/00000031-s.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisFziUYE56UPqEbYoWJEPRI1ygeVqY6VE6FpdBEfWH8ZE2HFrmcDNw0-lECmR3GjHsPFUOB4Q5R2bM_z51oDsmFmSwKsPSZax7IpoRr35k9So2EaY6UhGVImhMPgVVFzahg-oX4g0jw-E/s320/00000031-s.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038759490148361778" /></a><br />If one didn’t have a fireplace similar to one of these in their dining room, having only an old fashioned, outdated marble one. Mrs. Church had a suggestion, “…..the ordinary marble mantel-shelf will be much improved by a covering of maroon leather, or velveteen, finished with fringe. These coverings, when well made and harmonizing with the rest of the furniture, are extremely ornamental; and foundations of satin, felt, or momie cloth will also be found suitable“. She goes on describe how it was done.<br />“To make the cover fit smoothly, a board is cut the exact size of the mantel-shelf, and an under covering of cambric muslin is fitted carefully over it. The embroidery is put on the curtain, or lambrequin, which is usually made quite straight and without fullness. For a rich material, heavy fringe is sufficient ornament; while crewel or cretonne embroidery is very handsome on the last-mentioned fabrics, and affords scope for the exercise of artistic taste.”<br />To add additional ornament…..<br />“At the sides of the fireplace, tiles painted on a pale pink or green ground are a bright and suitable ornamentation. A skillful amateur could do this herself, and the numerous representations of mediaeval dining-tables and customs would furnish appropriate subjects. If tiles are impossible, small wooden panels, painted a dead white and ornamented with transferred French pictures, the whole highly varnished, and set in narrow maroon-colored frames or borders, will produce the desired effect. A legend across the front, in old English lettering, is very appropriate for a dining-room mantel, the ground-work being of the same color as that of the tiles or panels, and the letters either in black and gold or maroon and vermilion“. <br />If one could not have an open fire in the fireplace, a screening of ivy or other plants would do.<br /><em>In another article, I mentioned the practice of using a curtain in front of a fireplace. Here's an example used in a dining room.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5iqtJ3N9M-rXr4-MgrBzpzaKSHbNuON3DgB25ltzxzmSd_MxCJKxegzXfWcFdGRYDrqAbOPcg13VB0Zni1MA2nYRLS-SVo7EDbbRc6c3C-FiReoxxYYgB9H4exlxbiHsYakhQ26BCQto/s1600-h/1880+A+PLAIN+DINING+ROOM+FIREPLACE,+DECORATED.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5iqtJ3N9M-rXr4-MgrBzpzaKSHbNuON3DgB25ltzxzmSd_MxCJKxegzXfWcFdGRYDrqAbOPcg13VB0Zni1MA2nYRLS-SVo7EDbbRc6c3C-FiReoxxYYgB9H4exlxbiHsYakhQ26BCQto/s320/1880+A+PLAIN+DINING+ROOM+FIREPLACE,+DECORATED.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038761409998743122" /></a><br /><br /><strong>WINDOWS</strong><br />Ella Rodman Church liked the colorful look of a bit of stained glass in dining room windows. If stained glass was out of the question, one could achieve a nice effect by pasting thin figured muslin or lace over each pane. One could go a step further by arranging ferns and autumn leaves over the lace, or perhaps pressed pansies or daisies.<br /><br />A plain brass or wooden rod, or even iron gas pipe was considered more appropriate for hanging curtains than “the heavy lacquered brass or wood poles and unmeaning fringe valances, which only serve to show dirt and dust, and are execrable in taste“.<br />The curtains themselves could be made of almost any fabric.<br />“Unbleached muslin trimmed with parallel bands of blue and red has a macaw-like effect that is quite wonderful considering the material; horizontal stripes of Turkey-red and crash-toweling are very Oriental-looking ; our maroon-furnished room would be elegantly finished with curtains of horse-girths or netted twine, separated at intervals of half a yard or so by five-inch bands of maroon velveteen. All the pretty Oriental stuffs that are to be had at such fabulously low rates seem to find their natural sphere as dining-room draperies; while curtains of crewel-work, appliqué on Turkish toweling, cretonne-work almost everything that can be invented or made appear to be just the thing in the dining-room. Anything but lace draperies, on the one hand, or material that is too rich and heavy, on the other“.<br /><br /><strong>FURNITURE</strong><br />The most important article of furniture in a Victorian dining room was considered to be the sideboard. It was a massive piece, as a rule, and all the glittering best china, glassware and silver were arranged upon it.<br />In addition to the table and dining chairs buffet and sideboard, both Church and Eddis recommended a couple of comfortable lounge or arm chairs, perhaps with a hassock for each. <br /><em>A dining room lounge</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrtjMMX4B17TD7Qq58kGbr3d0vrpYPyp49TomQQdv7EF6QFigb_ofC9j3iA-U4xuqf2cXPlcJGWDwm9Doj8NTQa-RkMCfOI9lvaXjYcktqvSCsF0MJrKOwFQWsMqZwmwgiqOVr4qAqDk/s1600-h/A+DINING+ROOM+LOUNGE.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtrtjMMX4B17TD7Qq58kGbr3d0vrpYPyp49TomQQdv7EF6QFigb_ofC9j3iA-U4xuqf2cXPlcJGWDwm9Doj8NTQa-RkMCfOI9lvaXjYcktqvSCsF0MJrKOwFQWsMqZwmwgiqOVr4qAqDk/s320/A+DINING+ROOM+LOUNGE.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038763377093764722" /></a><br /><em><br />A sideboard</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlhlM5NNYXHuio0CdtKLAdfX0SeFib0qedk3OFcYMGlg3kSPAGqwrLzVeKjrW77w7FP4HQm0KMlcBC67oecL2btlsozx6WejfFtZ2Sqvy8btHwYoDjpFMCQ8_ptNzWxo4Un_CNcMlfEQ/s1600-h/church+book+sideboard.gif"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWlhlM5NNYXHuio0CdtKLAdfX0SeFib0qedk3OFcYMGlg3kSPAGqwrLzVeKjrW77w7FP4HQm0KMlcBC67oecL2btlsozx6WejfFtZ2Sqvy8btHwYoDjpFMCQ8_ptNzWxo4Un_CNcMlfEQ/s320/church+book+sideboard.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038763716396181122" /></a><br />The normal lighting in a dining room was a gas chandelier, or gasolier, hung over the table. Out in the country it might be replaced by a lamp sitting directly on the table. Apparently neither was quite satisfactory.” Side-lights, or sconces, may be placed on either side of the sideboard and the mantel-piece, one or both. It is better to have them on two sides of the room. It is also very pleasant to have one set, those by the sideboard to burn gas, and those on the chimney-piece made for candles. Many designs are now produced, and many very good ones ; some are wholly of brass, some enclose a bit of mirror or a plaque of pottery. "<br />Some pleasant pictures were advisable for the walls of the room. Paintings of fruit or flowers were agreeable, pictures of dead animals were passé. Though portraits were often hung in the dining room, Mrs. Church felt they should be kept out of the dining room or parlor .<br /><em>Finally, an example of a very simple dining room</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbx4gQaaK0Y4Xo78iR4xJ4PT_7Cxh3PyHrlKTi51ktT2VUQtksxP3qhR_GZTMsmFOcyyffvhBlaIvhTtZzqgg3qkxEPCzYF2Lu7fK8LVnCt2UnLB7897_u4jDzLc8BL87aFm8yLqYpD4o/s1600-h/E+R+CHURCH+DINING+ROOM.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbx4gQaaK0Y4Xo78iR4xJ4PT_7Cxh3PyHrlKTi51ktT2VUQtksxP3qhR_GZTMsmFOcyyffvhBlaIvhTtZzqgg3qkxEPCzYF2Lu7fK8LVnCt2UnLB7897_u4jDzLc8BL87aFm8yLqYpD4o/s400/E+R+CHURCH+DINING+ROOM.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038765941189240514" /></a>grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-45769819040961026502007-03-04T04:39:00.001-05:002009-05-14T18:21:57.886-05:00THE FRONT HALL circa 1880<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJcpkOIIVmVXIvOzHqjMuqaBQLuq_3dvPHwZV-0ZSGMyJq1fIJg87zUJCmAKeJXnxi4aD8ue1P9-Uh1mJoIQv1C52HSUoWTk7ojVobnrPQd3eUAMcN9I1Q0F890Wj-xEGTPV8_SuRAWKQ/s1600-h/1880+FRONT+HALL.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJcpkOIIVmVXIvOzHqjMuqaBQLuq_3dvPHwZV-0ZSGMyJq1fIJg87zUJCmAKeJXnxi4aD8ue1P9-Uh1mJoIQv1C52HSUoWTk7ojVobnrPQd3eUAMcN9I1Q0F890Wj-xEGTPV8_SuRAWKQ/s320/1880+FRONT+HALL.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038003756978277410" /></a><br />The information in this section is culled from two books, one British the other American, published in 1880 and 1882. Both were very similar, and expressed opinions I'd seen echoed in other, later books.<br />In both cases the books were geared toward the well to do for the most part, but they were also read by the budget-minded.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqECL8cHGzvX7EXNOdEIcH7kxi3bg6q3IgDK7xrHWoApy39C8B72NkhdcUffFnylgkc4Huk4FewAGVf1zmK3xKE8tNLHU-6LzDawVlvIheu-6c_MOW9hT-msw3r7iqtd2hOhj3MfyhjA/s1600-h/1880+SKETCH+FOR+A+MODERN+JACOBEAN+STYLE+HALL.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkqECL8cHGzvX7EXNOdEIcH7kxi3bg6q3IgDK7xrHWoApy39C8B72NkhdcUffFnylgkc4Huk4FewAGVf1zmK3xKE8tNLHU-6LzDawVlvIheu-6c_MOW9hT-msw3r7iqtd2hOhj3MfyhjA/s320/1880+SKETCH+FOR+A+MODERN+JACOBEAN+STYLE+HALL.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038004087690759218" /></a><br />The above sketch shows an “inner” hall for a large, important house designed in a “modern Jacobean style….as a fair example of the kind of internal work suitable for the new style of architecture, yclept, for want of a better name, ' Queen Anne.'.” Just as a note of interest, the word yclept is not a misprint. It is a word that was already archaic in 1880, meaning, more or less, ‘called’ as in, called, for want of a better name, ‘Queen Anne’. I went and looked it up.<br /><br /><strong>THE FRONT HALL</strong><br />A Victorian era house’s front door was generally painted, then varnished for protection against the weather and for easier washing. A recommended color was chocolate or some other warm shade of brown. <br /><br /><strong>FLOORS</strong><br />Most London town houses apparently had stone floors in the front hall. Though stonework could be kept clean and white with judicious scrubbing, Robert W. Eddis suggested that it may be desirable to paint the stone margins in a soft brown or other similar color. The center of the hallway should be covered with a rug or thick felt drugget. Oilcloth and linoleum were also commonly used, but some didn’t feel that the painted pattern on the oilcloth bore up well under daily wear and tear, over time they could crack. Linoleum was a new product that found favor with many, and came in assorted colors and patterns.<br />Parquet floors, in squares of one inch thick solid wood were another option, though quite expensive, so not as often seen.<br />Ella Rodman Church suggested…<br />“A strip of cocoanut or Japanese matting looks very well …..and a brightly checked Canton matting also makes a pretty and inexpensive hall carpet. A band of color at either edge, blue or crimson flannel or felt, makes a very good finish. A width of carpet running through the hall, with a bordering of inlaid wood, wood-carpet, or the brown walnut stain of the floor, showing at either side, will also look well. The carpet itself, if in harmony with the walls and staircase, may be in two shades of green, crimson, or chocolate-brown, in small set figures. If the hall is square in shape, the carpet should be so also, with the bordering on the four sides.<br /><br />Marble mosaics and plain or encaustic tiles had come into the forefront, and it was advised by some that when using tiles one should stick to simple patterns and plain colors like red, grey, or buff….“the all-over patterns, which are published in most of the pattern books laid before the public ; not only are these elaborate geometrical patterns unsatisfactory when laid, ….but they are infinitely more expensive than plain red 4 or 6 inch tiles laid over the whole space, with a simple border of black or buff. A plain red tile pavement of this kind is infinitely pleasanter, warmer, and more suitable for a town hall, than any of the elaborate patterns which are offered for the public choice, and repeated ad nauseam, in oilcloth and linoleum.” The marble mosaics and tiles were more expensive in America, and at this point were not often used<br /><br /><strong>WALLS & CEILINGS</strong><br />The walls of the front hall could be treated in several ways. One, which was considered the most suitable option, was to paint the walls about two thirds of their height with a pleasant color that wouldn’t show up finger marks. A pattern could be stenciled onto the painted wall, a dark over light or light over dark. The wall was then varnished to make it easier to clean. The upper third portion of the wall could be divided from the lower by a “plain wooden molding” which could, if desired be made in the form of a narrow shelf to display pieces of porcelain or stoneware, etc.<br />The question of how high the dado should be was a matter of personal choice. As stated above, some preferred the 2/3 height, while others specified a height of about 3 feet. The “plain wooden molding” mentioned, when lowered became what is known as a chair rail. The chair rail was sometimes dispensed with and a paper border was substituted. <br />Around this period the idea of a dado was a rather new one, and many still preferred the entire wall painted or papered as one. American critic Ella Rodman Church wrote, <br />“The field to choose from is so large, and so much is to be considered in the way of harmony with regard to the other furnishing, that the covering of walls is a subject for almost endless discussion. Among the things to be absolutely excluded, however, are " wall-papers in imitation of moldings, pilasters, and heavy carved cornices, which are vulgar in the extreme. In the vast majority of instances, the things imitated would be out of place; for no one wants a row of fluted pilasters with Corinthian capitals or elaborate cornices in an ordinary hall. If the reality would be objectionable, the cheap imitations are much more so ; and, if it is considered desirable to break up the blank walls, it can be done much better and at less cost by other means. Papers printed in imitation of marble, <br />granite, and wood graining are also in bad taste. Perfectly plain tints are very much handsomer."<br /><br />Among Mrs. Church’s recommendations were “…. dado of paper, the ground of a dull red, with the pattern in black, and the wall above painted in pale buff, green, or gray. …<br />For a hall, the palest of greens or browns is usually the most pleasing in effect; or the walls may be paneled artistically.”<br /><br />The upper portion of the wall under the cornice usually became discolored quickly from the effects of gas lighting. Robert W. Eddis recommended using distemper, a paint that could be washed off every year and redone cheaply.<br />“In the frieze might be panels containing birds and figures, which could be done in distemper with good effect, the general drawing being done in plain red outline, contrasting well with a cream-coloured general tone of ground. ………a plain running stencil pattern of foliage, shields, and birds, as an enriched border just below the cornice, might be judiciously introduced, or a good light-toned and simple pattern, or stamped paper…..may be hung over the whole space instead of distemper. …….Decorative wreaths of one or two colours, and pots of flowers or foliage sufficiently large to form a good decorative frieze in distemper colouring, may be done from 2s. 6d. to 3$. 6d. a yard run, and the patterns may be kept, so that the work may be renewed, if necessary, each year, or changed with new patterns, which can be cut out at a very small expenditure of time and money. The ceiling should be lightly tinted in a vellum, pink, or grey tone, with some slight stencil decoration to relieve it, and the cornice treated in very light shades in distemper.”<br />The author continued…….<br />“Remember these ceilings are certain in a little space to get dingy from ordinary town atmosphere, and the wretched impurities of gas. It is unfortunate that in this nineteenth century we are still obliged to burn gas which is generally impure and a disgrace to<br />modern science and civilisation. Consumers are made to pay a large price for this kind of light, and ought fairly to expect to be supplied with it free from all those impurities, which tend to destroy, not only the painting and decoration on our walls, but all pictures, gilding, and other works of the kind which are left unprotected by glass. At a little extra cost, plain deal or canvas plaster ribs might be laid over the existing plaster work, and the panels thus formed could be filled in with good flock paper to relieve the general flatness of the surface, and could be painted whenever required, or the whole surface may be covered with canvas plaster in a delicate all-over pattern of naturalistic or conventional leaf ornament cast in low relief, the ground work being tinted golden-yellow colour.”<br /><br />Another wall treatment recommended for the hall was to panel it to a height of 6 or 7 feet with a plain inexpensive wood, like pine, then paint it in red or dark blue lacquer. Above<br />Use a flocked wallpaper, painted golden yellow, flecked with a bit or a reddish or golden color. <br />Polished marble or mosaic tiles or slabs were another wall recommendation. It was advised that the woodwork be painted in two colors, with the moldings done in a darker shade, “….if the mullions and framing of the door be done in a dark shade, let us say of chocolate or brown, the panels might be lighter in tone, with stencil decoration of flowers, birds, or fruit in a darker shade. Here let me say that all woodwork, such as doors, windows, and shutters, which are subject to the wear of not always clean hands, should be varnished throughout “.<br />Yet another decorating option…….<br />“A warm golden-brown or yellow forms a good general tone for a hall and staircase, with a Pompeian-red dado painted, with black skirting and rail, and a frieze of light pattern paper or cream-coloured distemper ground, with line enrichment in dark golden brown or red. The general woodwork should be painted black, where there is not too much of it, or in two shades of good red or brown, or the general tone might be peacock or light blue, with soft vellum grey and blue pattern papers or distemper. A deep frieze<br />of boldly designed painted or stencil ornament will assist much in breaking the usual bad proportion of the staircase wall, while panels may be formed in bold lines of paint or distemper, wherein may be framed pictures or other art work. A good neutral tint or warm grey ground, with ornament in green and vermilion, has a good effect if the colours be carefully treated; or a wide diaper, with patterns interchanged, and charged with shields and legends here and there. Any good photographs, sketches, or studies are useful to hang on the rake of the staircase, on the eye line, to take off the general coldness. Many varieties of tints will suggest themselves, which will help to give a bright and cheerful character to the passage-way of the whole house, in place of the cold and dreary, rightly called, well, to which we are so accustomed.”<br /><br />There was, at this time, a great interest in Japanese and Chinese art. Markets were full of colorful, inexpensive Japanese fans and prints, etc., and they were considered to be good pieces with which to decorate halls and staircases. Stencils done in an Oriental style were also in favor.<br /> These fish stencils were used to decorate the panels of a door. The stencil was done in dark chocolate over a light reddish brown. Mr. Eddis felt that a door stenciled in such a manner was a marked improvement over the “……dull monotony of imitation graining of oak, maple, or satin wood, to which we are so much accustomed. “<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgqQJqdqFq5PxY0W5tsD3d7BDgaic2yzv3Wi_6P6sq7estZD0j1aEQ2ESN3IzxfleohyphenhyphenZjQVVj_ut4qzTbm3O1NlMMzAdFMsTPIEvTFeAsFDNEkkcfGpPLjm_fNjenjHSuOi21MTp-4qI/s1600-h/00000196-s.gif"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgqQJqdqFq5PxY0W5tsD3d7BDgaic2yzv3Wi_6P6sq7estZD0j1aEQ2ESN3IzxfleohyphenhyphenZjQVVj_ut4qzTbm3O1NlMMzAdFMsTPIEvTFeAsFDNEkkcfGpPLjm_fNjenjHSuOi21MTp-4qI/s320/00000196-s.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5038004972454022210" /></a><br /><br />* * * * * *<br /><br />Sometimes the front hall was divided in two, the front portion consisting of a vestibule.<br />The inner door, with perhaps sidelights, was often glazed in plain plate glass. Critics advised the use of leaded or stained glass panels. Lace and figured Swiss muslin were two popular glass coverings. Some people used their crafting skills and applied things like diaphane and vitromania. If you’d like more information about these crafts check this book.<br /><a href=" http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4400027">HOUSEHOLD ELEGANCIES</a>: suggestions in household art and tasteful home decorations. <br />1875<br /><br />In larger homes, with larger front halls, there could be a small fireplace.<br /> ‘If you wish for places for china, have plain painted deal shelves, made in groups, gradually diminishing from the lower to the upper shelf, and fixed above the mantel-piece. Do not, as is so often done, cover the mantel-shelf with a wooden top, covered with cloth or velvet, nailed on with a fringe and brass nails ; this will be an endless source of annoyance, from the fact that it never can be kept free from dirt and dust, not to say anything of its spotty and unartistic effect.” <br /><br />For the basic, garden variety hall, finishing touches included a hat rack and umbrella stand, which in those days was one, often fairly large piece of furniture. A massive hall table flanked by similar chairs was in order when there was room for it. If the hall was a small one, a chair and a wall hat rack would do.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-71782427399066497442007-02-27T18:39:00.001-05:002013-03-13T07:40:19.905-05:00THE BEDROOM AND BOUDOIR CIRCA 1880<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6xHOML6v0cZCBdJNuTPNorkYtSfjBqCgT08ayxyRAaIQAflWKEfK2w_D6J41u7hLhpQ1k_3UT99yMrtk2QxhOT416g50iIE1_r20KbXEuhj-6VTdfZNX4gD33x0pjzA_qyA6O817Cgw/s1600-h/bedstead+and+toilet+stand.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036365466870656546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW6xHOML6v0cZCBdJNuTPNorkYtSfjBqCgT08ayxyRAaIQAflWKEfK2w_D6J41u7hLhpQ1k_3UT99yMrtk2QxhOT416g50iIE1_r20KbXEuhj-6VTdfZNX4gD33x0pjzA_qyA6O817Cgw/s320/bedstead+and+toilet+stand.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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Victorians were developing a mania about clean, undisease-laden fresh air. One of the reasons for having a fireplace in the bedroom was that the chimney flue helped ventilate the room. <br />
“I take it for granted that every one understands the enormous importance of having a fireplace in each sleeping-room in an English house, for the sake of the ventilation afforded by the chimney”. The author of Bedroom and Boudoir (1878), went so far as to suggest that perhaps a brick in the wall might be loosened, or perhaps some holes drilled by an auger into the panel of the bedroom door.<br />
If for some reason, one couldn’t sleep with an open window, then they should leave their door open at night, as long as there was a window open in the hallway all day and night, no matter what the weather.<br />
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<em>If one cannot afford carpets, bare wooden floors with a simple animal skin will suffice.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJjxv1PN6UuFHgvBRg_NuWbADGYRv0-xx2yvdEqm7tzMfTkAx5Iya0XAH3UxWmE65z5yyCaE6ZQtABF7WF7XzAzx23xJiFyaaMnVhi9SD3Z846ON970hIg2VxgPVJE9JOoH-5HuxTBxGk/s1600-h/if+one+cannot+afford+rugs,bare+floors+with+a+simple+animal+skin+will+suffice.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036365990856666674" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJjxv1PN6UuFHgvBRg_NuWbADGYRv0-xx2yvdEqm7tzMfTkAx5Iya0XAH3UxWmE65z5yyCaE6ZQtABF7WF7XzAzx23xJiFyaaMnVhi9SD3Z846ON970hIg2VxgPVJE9JOoH-5HuxTBxGk/s320/if+one+cannot+afford+rugs,bare+floors+with+a+simple+animal+skin+will+suffice.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
It was advised that you paint or paper bedrooms in delicate colors. One author advised the walls be painted for washability with “harmoniously contrasting lines” at the ceiling. She also advised patternless cretonne curtains of the same shade as the walls, edged with stripes matching the ones near the ceiling. For those who preferred wallpaper, “…let it be all of one soft tint, a pearly gray, a tender sea-shell pink, or a green which has no arsenic in it; but on this point great care is requisite”. <br />
Chintz, stretched tightly in panels, so it could be taken down for cleaning was another decorating idea for the bedroom wall. Yet another scheme mentioned was for panels upon which gathered white muslin was stretched over pink, blue or apple-green silk.<br />
On the other hand, sometimes dark colors were desirable. The following paragraph illustrates a case.<br />
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“This pretty room is in a handsome, moderately sized country house, that was built and furnished by the occupants after their own cherished ideas. The result was eminently pleasing; and the bedroom in question, having plenty of windows and sunshine, was not furnished in the light colors that usually predominate, as this would have made it altogether too glaring. It was a large, square apartment; and the dark, brilliant coloring seemed to produce the effect of a gorgeous tropical bird. The ebonized furniture was relieved by scarlet cushions, and the curtains were in stripes of Turkey-red alternating with cream-colored stuff, and finished with a plaited ruffle of the red. The wall was covered with a particularly rich French paper, the pattern wrought in bouquets of poppies, daisies, and morning-glories“. <br />
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Assorted kinds of lightweight fabrics, generally washable cottons, were used for curtains.<br />
If cheesecloth was used for the bedroom curtains, it was recommended that it be lined with a fabric the same color as the trim, with perhaps a simple straight lambrequin or valance.<br />
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<em>Described as a Dutch bedstead</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNfB4NCRW-Yoi-9hgqLNcmiYosmlIeZNqmWbjP_-1ovBUrwCtPVRQRlbmbQtFI7sGKkRgnHrBCouuLLOMkgxVKNlPDWSbCAIEY8Ssie3jvqaI03aGofchkdA5M8SW6ZpwpzakrXDeRag/s1600-h/dutch+bedstead.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036367030238752338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMNfB4NCRW-Yoi-9hgqLNcmiYosmlIeZNqmWbjP_-1ovBUrwCtPVRQRlbmbQtFI7sGKkRgnHrBCouuLLOMkgxVKNlPDWSbCAIEY8Ssie3jvqaI03aGofchkdA5M8SW6ZpwpzakrXDeRag/s320/dutch+bedstead.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>Beds</strong><br />
The old four poster beds were out of style, replaced for a time by “…frightful and vulgar frames of cast iron, ornamented with tawdry gilt or bronze scroll-work…” . But in 1884, noted design critic Ella Rodman Church suggested that an inexpensive metal or cane bed could be improved with a little gilding.<br />
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She gave instructions on how to make 2 kinds of bed canopies.<br />
Head canopies, so much in use, have a very inviting effect. They are not objectionable in regard to ventilation, like close curtains, and they can be arranged with very little expense on almost any bed. Take two upright pieces of wood, two or three inches wide and as high as is desired for the canopy; have two short projecting side-pieces fastened at the top, and with these support a horizontal strip the whole forming a framework which may be covered with colored cambric stretched tightly over it, and afterward with dotted or plain Swiss, or any other thin material that may be desired. The curtain part is then gathered on to the back, sides, and front of this oblong frame, which should project not more than half a yard or so from the head-board ; then ribbon to match the color of the cambric loops them back at the sides, where they are fastened to the strips of wood. The curtains may also be lined with cambric, or silesia, which is softer.<br />
Should the bed stand with one side against the wall, as it must where it is desirable to economize space, a very pretty canopy can be made on a frame shaped like half of a circle with the rounded part in front, and supported at the back with a narrow strip of wood fastened to the side of the bedstead, and also secured at the top against the wall. This is also to be covered with cambric and draped all around, the drapery at the back corning in front of the wooden support to conceal it. If the rounded top can be fastened to the wall (bracket fashion) without the strip of wood, it will be all the better; and a pretty finish can be made when the curtains are attached to this frame by a pointed valance of the cambric covered with the thin material, and trimmed with a plaiting or fluting of the same or lace. The trimming on the curtains should be of the same ; and they may be gracefully laid back over the head-and foot-board.<br />
A canopy of this sort gives a peculiar grace and quite an elegant look to the whole room ; and curtains of dotted or figured Swiss, with the same at the windows, have a fresh, airy appearance that is very desirable in a sleeping-room.<br />
People slept on the new, improved mattresses . The author of Bed and Boudoir felt that two mattresses, one of horsehair and another of wool made as soft a bed as anyone could want. “Frowsy old feather beds” were out, as were mattresses stuffed with chopped grass or seaweed. In the US, mattresses were also filled with cornhusks.<br />
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With about 8 yards of muslin and 3 bales of cotton-batting one could make a very nice “comfortable” or comforter. This, together with a couple of good wool blankets would keep most any Victorian warm on cold winter nights.<br />
A popular kind of bedroom furniture of the day was painted and enameled, decorated with flowers and gilding.<br />
Mrs. Church describes a bed ;" The bedstead of elder wood is painted white, varnished, and ornamented with red, blue, and green Turkish arabesques. The bedding consists of a spring mattress and a curled-hair mattress. The linen sheet is hemstitched on the ends. At the head and foot of the bed are bolsters, filled with curled hair, the length of which corresponds with the width of the bedstead. The bed is also furnished with a large and a small square pillow and an edredon, or down quilt. The fine linen pillow-cases are trimmed with embroidered insertions and ruffles, and the upper side of the case for the edredon is trimmed besides with embroidered foundation figures. In the center of the case for the small pillow is a monogram."<br />
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<em>A draped toilet stand. The box held milady’s face powder, and any other cosmetics of the time that she may have used.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-dLA3G_YMmsFjwbR_4vdItZF-pZ5NJz8hytePx9gRAm7GFHD5yvga7-3gijytjK7OZxMk1qfGNjVWrjQA4IaiTUjMnu2Y-n0c7bA2EqpAzUkK0Zo3H8qFwiyYS2wyenjx2n2BG3Fxvo/s1600-h/a+toilet+stand.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036366501957774914" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-dLA3G_YMmsFjwbR_4vdItZF-pZ5NJz8hytePx9gRAm7GFHD5yvga7-3gijytjK7OZxMk1qfGNjVWrjQA4IaiTUjMnu2Y-n0c7bA2EqpAzUkK0Zo3H8qFwiyYS2wyenjx2n2BG3Fxvo/s320/a+toilet+stand.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<em>Described as a simple toilet table.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBRDCNrKnXW0RH2AW7P10n6GZYoMWm_8nWf5oSoEYCtPPfxP0vNoUH3SrUA2iWJIjhCrkCTfcbVMA-RwyZo71YGPjJyKmvem-xAxGypDv5ZhOuzAbWFcGyRSkpfhyphenhyphenU5dWnoi3Cn19fuNw/s1600-h/a+simple+toilet+table.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036367455440514658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBRDCNrKnXW0RH2AW7P10n6GZYoMWm_8nWf5oSoEYCtPPfxP0vNoUH3SrUA2iWJIjhCrkCTfcbVMA-RwyZo71YGPjJyKmvem-xAxGypDv5ZhOuzAbWFcGyRSkpfhyphenhyphenU5dWnoi3Cn19fuNw/s320/a+simple+toilet+table.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>Toilet Tables</strong><br />
Although the ladies of the day didn’t use make up as we know it ( perhaps a burnt match to darken the lashes), they did use an assortment of creams and lotions to keep their skin soft and white. There were also hair preparations, back in the days before shampoos, to make one’s hair silky smooth.<br />
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Toilet tables made of drapery over a pine framework were a popular furniture item in a ladies’ bedroom of the 70’s and 80’s. Male design critics apparently railed against them, but the ladies mentioned them in their books with favor. <br />
“If the room be an essentially modern one, and especially if it be in the country, nothing affords a prettier spot of colour in it, than the old-fashioned toilet-table of deal (pine) covered with muslin draperies over soft-hued muslin or batiste. Of course the caricature of such an arrangement may be seen any day in the fearful and detestable toilet-table with a skimpy and coarse muslin flounce over a tight-fitting skirt of glaring pink calico, but this is a parody…..” . <br />
Ella Rodman Church felt it was “quite an article of convenience”, and described how to make one in detail.<br />
<em>An "antique" toilet table</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qcnugxwe-COVxzB1INOOkwR7y2T1CTTmdEl_7AVcgy90lt_Y_tpqZXma3SDE1Cc6JJ70DciSlWwvnQO164MyI7DF1Mo_3P6YX1ugVeKmxuaIKLayIyqzb0ZrsihB4SshQsnxLZwxjnI/s1600-h/antique+toilet+table.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036368245714497138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qcnugxwe-COVxzB1INOOkwR7y2T1CTTmdEl_7AVcgy90lt_Y_tpqZXma3SDE1Cc6JJ70DciSlWwvnQO164MyI7DF1Mo_3P6YX1ugVeKmxuaIKLayIyqzb0ZrsihB4SshQsnxLZwxjnI/s320/antique+toilet+table.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: right; margin: 0 0 10px 10px;" /></a><br />
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“ Quite an inexpensive one may be made from a dry-goods box three feet high, four wide, and two feet six inches deep, with four blocks of wood one inch thick and four inches square nailed beneath each corner, to which casters are screwed. The box is placed with open side out, and fitted with a convenient shelf or two. The whole interior should be neatly papered or painted and varnished. <br />
On each side (at the back) of the top are fastened two long, narrow boxes, which may be obtained generally from the drug or dry-goods stores. These should be about two feet long and one wide, and from eight to ten inches deep. By sawing pieces of lath to fit the sides, and tacking them on in proper position, shelves may be made that will be convenient for holding various articles. The covers to the boxes, fitted with small hinges, will make doors ; and the whole must be neatly finished with moldings put on with small brads, and an ornamental top and base made of square boards an inch or two deeper than the cases themselves. To these are screwed a pair of the iron brackets which we can purchase for from thirty-five to fifty cents, or for seventy-five cents to one dollar, fitted with lamps <br />
complete.<br />
These cases are screwed or nailed very securely on the top of the table, as they are to sustain the glass, which is of 'comfortable size 'perfectly plain, but of good quality and neatly framed. Such a one can be purchased new for three or four dollars, and at second hand frequently for half of that sum.<br />
Over the top of the glass is fastened a frame …..around which is draped a hanging made of Swiss (figured or plain), lined with rose-color or other tint. First, a width reaching from the top to within a few inches of the floor is fastened to the upper back ends of the semicircular tester, the ends finished with a deep ruffle of the same ; then on the tester above this are arranged two pieces made by tacking a width of the Swiss and lining two yards long, folding it diagonally from corner to corner, cutting and trimming the two cut edges with ruffles of the same, and arranging them back of the boxes on either side. Around the top tack another ruffle made with an edge above the cord, which runs along the center of all the ruffles.<br />
The table-top is covered with a piece of the Swiss over a lining like the curtains, and a drapery arranged around the front made with rings at the top, which slide on a wire beneath the narrow ruffle finishing the edge. This allows access to the shelves within. The wood-work of this table should be carefully polished and ornamented to correspond with the rest of the furniture, which may be ebonized, enameled in colors, embellished with marquetry, ivory inlaying, decalcomanie, painting, bronzing, and gilding, or enriched with carvings at pleasure. Any one of these methods of beautifying will be found elegant, and may be made perfect of its kind."<br />
Some felt that the fashion for draping the mirror above the toilet table was a fire hazard, seeing as it was a time of open flame lighting, but others continued to do so.<em><br />A "modern" French washing stand</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3IfZIbcfUNcXgv9aKpUic2zlZImTY-vUMbF2Q9KS8OgNv9PHE4Pav2_kvdWNZqJORx2IqF-rNRLjnt-VNLPYDCCJOxdrQZ7h3e1wB0g_R9YV6rifa1ss_ZbND-lMqjcoiu8zMuOmWwUI/s1600-h/french+wash+stand.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036368782585409154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3IfZIbcfUNcXgv9aKpUic2zlZImTY-vUMbF2Q9KS8OgNv9PHE4Pav2_kvdWNZqJORx2IqF-rNRLjnt-VNLPYDCCJOxdrQZ7h3e1wB0g_R9YV6rifa1ss_ZbND-lMqjcoiu8zMuOmWwUI/s320/french+wash+stand.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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<strong>Other furniture</strong><br />
Folding screens were a favorite item in many Victorian bedrooms. One could dress behind them privately, if one was sharing a room, they could protect one from the ever present drafts, and they were pretty.<br />
A couch or lounge, a low easy-chair or a rattan chair with a bright cushion were some other pieces to complete a room. Another example of seating was described as “ a round box on casters, with a low wooden back attached, curved to fit the back against it, and generously stuffed and padded. This should be covered like the other furniture, and finished with a deep fall of the material all around the seat.”<br />
A round or oval table which could be used for writing or sewing was a very convenient item for the bedroom. In 1882, Mrs. Church described a bedroom table cover.<br />
“A very appropriate table-cover for a bedroom may be made of squares of cretonne. There is a bordering cut from the striped material, and the groundwork of this bordering and that of the central square should be the same. These squares, for quite a large cover, are three eighths of a yard each, and seven in number, the ground of the central one being black like that of the border, and the other six being two each of red, blue, and buff. These colors may of course be varied to suit different tastes. The squares are joined like patchwork, and the seams are covered with a black worsted braid about two thirds the width of skirt braid, herring-boned with gold-colored silk. A lining of silesia, blue, pink, buff, or gray, and a deep edging of antique lace, completes an exceedingly pretty table-cover.”<br />
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Every bedroom of the period should have a wash stand, with a large basin and water jug, and space for sponges and soap. If there was no maid, or for convenience sake, one also needed to have a receptacle for the dirty water, which would be emptied occasionally during the day. The author suggested a china one, as tin ones began to smell from the dirty water and soapsuds. Some wash stands were available with a tipping basin feature. They looked rather similar to a sink, with running water, but when you finished washing, you’d tip the bowl and it would empty into a basin inside the cabinet. Of course, later someone had to come and take out the bucket of dirty water.<br />
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<br />
<em>A wash stand for a corner of a boy‘s bedroom or downstairs corner or closet with a “long towel on a roller behind it”. My boys would have knocked this one over constantly.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkNlUWcmOFfRCRlU-RqZHRqMTrXOIsfF9JPWJ39kmVkYgmoaVlrNLEmp53rbPmn4dR7vyq-Thweym3a3x3LstSVbDH0YCQMa99v9TdmxFbOoD0dIh5vfKyIReE9iVHqOqMQs7YoABHOgw/s1600-h/referred+to+as+a+good+one+for+boys.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036369353816059538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkNlUWcmOFfRCRlU-RqZHRqMTrXOIsfF9JPWJ39kmVkYgmoaVlrNLEmp53rbPmn4dR7vyq-Thweym3a3x3LstSVbDH0YCQMa99v9TdmxFbOoD0dIh5vfKyIReE9iVHqOqMQs7YoABHOgw/s320/referred+to+as+a+good+one+for+boys.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
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If you didn’t have a separate room for bathing, you could bathe in your room behind the ever present folding screen. An oil cloth would be spread on the floor, and the tub placed upon it, then filled.<br />
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<em>A small bedroom fireplace.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0nSdc9TOK1vMfTy-vZuARvVoq_N6sKhVy5baGtKECxPwQ9uUladu9uiH8_CJeGss0Flm8A01Lz3GcWclfvvqPPQOf5uk1BVNs0enIms88FoFD2aMgPXpsCgZy0Y7ccFlRwolJHGmxZk/s1600-h/1878+bedroom+fireplace.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036370036715859618" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0nSdc9TOK1vMfTy-vZuARvVoq_N6sKhVy5baGtKECxPwQ9uUladu9uiH8_CJeGss0Flm8A01Lz3GcWclfvvqPPQOf5uk1BVNs0enIms88FoFD2aMgPXpsCgZy0Y7ccFlRwolJHGmxZk/s320/1878+bedroom+fireplace.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; margin: 0 10px 10px 0;" /></a><br />
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A fireplace in the bedroom was a desirable item, as mentioned in the opening paragraph, for proper ventilation, but also for aesthetic reasons.<br />
On the subject of fireplaces, “When one thinks either of the imitation marble mantelpiece, or its cotton velvet and of false-lace-bedizened shelves, the artistic soul cannot refrain from a shudder.” The fireplaces now in favor harkened back to the old fashioned looking open hearths, lined with tiles. In England an iron basket for coals would be set within it, in America, where wood was abundant, a different sort of grate or iron “dogs” would be used.<br />
It was a common practice to cover the mantel with drapery, which could match the curtains or the table covering. It could then be covered with china candlesticks, vases and a clock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6RmaC1Dvg3VD_5qHRSr0YRT32-mGYvJtfrzU6cGUHCccO6jBvw_VzPr_BbCRitAh_SGIJ_a89MP0cg1Z1JQlnJ7isOUgiEi3D31t50WIuFL1GtTEynPGHA3zZQEYG-VGm-8QV3eTP80/s1600-h/00000069_tifs.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036370367428341426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP6RmaC1Dvg3VD_5qHRSr0YRT32-mGYvJtfrzU6cGUHCccO6jBvw_VzPr_BbCRitAh_SGIJ_a89MP0cg1Z1JQlnJ7isOUgiEi3D31t50WIuFL1GtTEynPGHA3zZQEYG-VGm-8QV3eTP80/s320/00000069_tifs.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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To finish off the bedroom, “one or two light stands are always convenient”, and a shelf by the bed for a book for bedtime reading. Some photographs, engravings and brackets for china statuettes or vases of flowers, though “china twisted into such outlandish forms as dolphins, frogs, porcupines, or small pink dogs is not to be tolerated “ as were “slippers with cut flowers in the toe, fishes with open mouths for the same purpose, and a host of other preposterous devices in china“.<br />
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<em>A bedroom could be decorated and furnished simply, as seen from this 1880 illustration.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghEBUdSPrBRujDBqC_At1rCpAvxKjfuZ6ajASUtAX6JYKgTicijc5J8RnevmeugzyzGTgjwxsddpMAL9ZjuYgmVZPAMIDqEg7EkCEGryDjF5kdlRTulnbvJztREMJ0YO3Ugub6xMmwec/s1600-h/1880+BEDROOM+FURNITURE.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036371084687879890" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgghEBUdSPrBRujDBqC_At1rCpAvxKjfuZ6ajASUtAX6JYKgTicijc5J8RnevmeugzyzGTgjwxsddpMAL9ZjuYgmVZPAMIDqEg7EkCEGryDjF5kdlRTulnbvJztREMJ0YO3Ugub6xMmwec/s320/1880+BEDROOM+FURNITURE.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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<br />
<em>Or as lushly as this example from 1882. The lady is seated in her boudoir, her bed can be seen in the alcove in the background.</em><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6HZKw3wsYs3id-rR2Te8dlZL9reF_uXrTc06_pIOLF0dihLmQeSxGLjgVGp_x84kfmXW1CT4FWMBx2QFRLM2o9voqIHwIoIrSmp9kJw2Cy1ibd4DZTy5x7eP1QPEsEoEyhc1RQO_y4r4/s1600-h/1882+a+lady%27s+boudoir.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5036370723910627010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6HZKw3wsYs3id-rR2Te8dlZL9reF_uXrTc06_pIOLF0dihLmQeSxGLjgVGp_x84kfmXW1CT4FWMBx2QFRLM2o9voqIHwIoIrSmp9kJw2Cy1ibd4DZTy5x7eP1QPEsEoEyhc1RQO_y4r4/s320/1882+a+lady%27s+boudoir.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
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<br />
Finally, the following is a paragraph on a boy’s bedroom .<br />
“If I had my own way, I would accustom boys as well as girls to take a pride in making and keeping their bedrooms as pretty and original as possible. Boys might be encouraged to so arrange their collections of eggs, butterflies, beetles, and miscellaneous rubbish, as to combine some sort of decorative principle with this sort of portable property. And I would always take care that a boy's room was so furnished and fitted that he might feel free, there at least, from the trammels of good furniture. He should have bare boards with only a rug to stand on at the bed-side and fire-place, but he should be encouraged to make with his own hands picture-frames, bookcases, brackets, anything he liked, to adorn his room.”<br />
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<br />grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-70187086002879137572007-02-24T10:46:00.001-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.529-05:00A view of 19th century architecture as seen from 1907An excerpt from the book<br /><a href="http://hearth.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=hearth;idno=4305483">THE HOUSE</a>: its plan, decoration and care<br />1907 Isabel Bevier<br /><br /><br />TRANSITIONAL HOMES <br />The word transition suggests change and that suggests variety, uncertainty, and these are the words which characterize the period beginning about 1825. The war of the revolution was over, but the spirit of it yet remained; traditions and customs were being questioned. The Americans were experimenting in politics, business, and social customs and naturally this spirit of experimentation expressed itself in architecture. For a time Colonial customs and traditions were maintained, but they were bound to yield sooner or later to the demands of the revolutionary spirit for a newer style of architecture as well as changes in social order and business methods. Architecture is too complex to yield easily to experimentation. As a result the dwellings of the period show all sorts or incongruities.<br /><br />The well-trained handicraftsmen lost much of their skill in their attempt to build quickly rather than well. They lost, too, the inspiration of association with skilled workmen and good standards as they journeyed westward. The amateur architects lacked judgment and adaptation. Greek art and architecture have been the standard of beauty for all ages, but these architects overlooked the fact that these models of beauty were public buildings, not private residences. The results were incongruities in domestic architecture. Imitations of Greek and Doric temples made strange looking houses on the Hudson. Many towns in the United States are still in their transitional period as regards art, and architecture, witness the tiny cottage with Doric and Ionic columns of a size sufficient for a Greek temple, or the house with Dutch gambrel roof, French windows and old Colonial outline.<br /><br />The wooden Parthenon endured longer in the South. The veranda with pillars served to shut out some of the heat of the Southern sun. This lawless imitation of old world forms obtained not only in architecture, but furniture and furnishings as well. Empire furniture lacking the refinement and simplicity of Colonial became common and what one has called the "Dark Middle Age" of American interior decoration began.<br /><br />The condition of New York residential architecture in the fifties may be gathered from the complaints of one-writer who does not like to have the "streets of New York filled with costly and meaningless copies of Greek porticos, of Gothicized dwellings, of ambitious imitations of baronial castles, Egyptian tombs, turreted churches, useless campanile towers." The writer adds, "As yet there is no American architecture whose name is known beyond the circle of his own employers" and he predicts that we must outgrow our childish dependence upon the old world before we shall be able to boast of our architecture as we boast of our ship builders. One style followed another in rapid succession. All lands, all materials were brought into requisition by the energetic American architect, aided by the ambitious rich man who had traveled in other lands. Perhaps the most extreme example of the incongruities of the house of the transition period may be found in "The Celebrity," where the new rich man gives this description of his favorite country seat.<br />"I had all these ideas I gathered knocking about the world, and I gave them to Willis of Philadelphia to put together for me. But he's honest enough not to claim the house. Take, for instance, that minaret business on the west. I picked that up from a mosque in Algiers. The oriel just this side is whole cloth from Haclclon Hall, and the gallaried porch next it from a Florentine villa. The conical capped tower I got from a French chateau, and some of the features on the south from a Buddhist temple in Japan. Only a little blending and grouping necessary, and Willis calls himself an architect, and wasn't equal to it. Now," he added, "get the effect. Did you ever see another house like it?"<br />Extreme as this description may seem, such monstrosities existed and similar examples are yet to be found. It would appear that the United States is still in the transitional period so far as its architecture is concerned though distinct types of American houses are being developed. It is also evident that while the house of the transitional period may be inconvenient it is certain to be incongruous because of its blending of elements which do not belong together.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-89587433194198823892007-02-24T10:43:00.000-05:002009-05-14T18:15:28.529-05:00What a House Should Be???THE HOUSE THAT JILL BUILT AFTER JACK’S HAD PROVED A FAILURE 1882 <br />By E.C.Gardner , revised 1895<br /><br />"It appears, Jack, my dear, to be absolutely indispensable to our future happiness that the house shall front north, south, east and west."<br /><br />"Let's build it on a pivot."<br /><br />"We must not have large halls to keep warm in cold weather, and we must have large halls 'for style.' The stories must not be less than eleven nor more than nine feet high. It must be carpeted throughout and all the floors must be bare. It must be warmed by steam and hot water and furnaces and fireplaces and base-burners and coal grates."<br /><br />"We shan't have to go away from home to get into purgatory, shall we?"<br /><br />"Hush! The walls of the rooms must be calcimined, painted, frescoed and papered; they must be dyed in the mortar, finished with leather, with tiles, with tapestry and with solid wood panels. There must be blinds—outside blinds, awnings, inside shutters, rolling blinds, Venetian shades and no blinds at all. There must be wide, low-roofed piazzas all around the house, so that we can live out of doors in the summer, and on no account must the sun be excluded from the windows of the first story by piazza roofs. At least eight patent sanitary plumbing articles, and as many cooking ranges, are each the only one safe and fit to be used. The house must be high and low—"<br /><br />"I'm Jack and you shall be game—"<br /><br />"It must be of bricks, wood and stone, separately and in combination; it must be Queen Anne, Gothic, French, Japanesque and classic American, and it must be painted all the colors of an autumn landscape."<br /><br />"Well, there's one comfort," said Jack; "you haven't paid for this advice, so you won't be obliged to take it in order to save it."<br /><br />"I should think not, indeed, but that isn't the trouble. These letters are from my special friends, wise, practical people, who know everything about building and housekeeping, and they speak from solemn conviction based on personal experience."<br /><br />"Moral: When the doctors differ, do as you please."grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102445691908266398.post-67378379771309866952007-02-15T18:23:00.001-05:002009-05-14T18:22:52.516-05:00THE VICTORIAN BATHROOMThere were house plans in the 1850’s that showed bathrooms. There were plans in the 1890’s that showed none. Some of the earlier rooms labeled bathrooms had running water and tubs and perhaps even toilets, others were just rooms in which one could bathe if one placed a tin bathing tub within it.<br /><br />By the turn of the 19th c at least 17 American cities had experimented with water supply systems. Philadelphia, the largest city in the US at the time, commissioned Benjamin Latrobe to build a steam powered waterworks. It opened in 1801, but it was plagued with problems and replaced by a new system in 1815. Boston embarked on a water supply system in 1846, and was soon supplying over 11,000 households with running water “for all domestic purposes, including private baths and water closets” according to an almanac of 1850. In 1860 Boston had 3,910 bathtubs and 9,864 water closets, for a population of 178,000. An interesting point is that even if your house was supplied by public water, it didn’t necessarily mean you had running water in the house. Some had hydrants in their yards and brought the water indoors by the bucketful. <br /><br />In the 1850’s the water closet was expensive to install and imperfect in its workings, thus there weren’t very many in use. The bathroom of 1900, however would be pretty familiar to all of us.<br /><br />In 1799 Elizabeth Drinker wrote in her journal that she had taken a shower bath, and that it was the first time she had been wet all over in 28 years. By 1836 it was advised that a young lady should wash herself completely with soap and water every 24 hours so as not to offend. Godey’s Lady’s Book , was advising readers in 1860 that bathing at night was ill advised, while bathing briefly in the morning once a week was fine. Before the 19th century, and even well into it, people washed themselves with water and a sponge when they felt they needed it. This final point was a matter of personal choice. Some felt they needed a washing every day, some once a week, or once a month or once every few years or so. At that, they didn’t use soap. Soap was for laundry. Soap for bathing wasn’t commonly used till the second half of the 19th c.<br /><br />Before the use of bathrooms, bathing was often done in the kitchen, close to the hot water, and usually the warmest room in the house. Bathtubs often came under the heading of kitchen equipment.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhe8RQK6Y2f1Cvlp9Lt2Ewt8tVEw2zVeRM8tLMiRltFPy4dvE1bqrqvHWqzcV5mePZX1axJ2L2dD_FOz17-TEhBT-GeLSPOBtcUPUvLMiZlZK67tWlQheWuu4pHv-FlGTscK15XsyhAs/s1600-h/IMGP0755.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhe8RQK6Y2f1Cvlp9Lt2Ewt8tVEw2zVeRM8tLMiRltFPy4dvE1bqrqvHWqzcV5mePZX1axJ2L2dD_FOz17-TEhBT-GeLSPOBtcUPUvLMiZlZK67tWlQheWuu4pHv-FlGTscK15XsyhAs/s320/IMGP0755.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031915289457204402" /></a><br /><em>The contraption on the wall by the door was for bathing. The sides slope down to the center basin to catch the water that was poured over the bather.</em><br /><br />Another technological advancement that advanced the use of the bathtub, in addition to the increased amounts of public water systems was the attic cistern. It was filled by rainwater or by pumping water up from a well or spring. Gravity would then take over to provide running water to any room in the house.<br /><br />Showers were generally used only by men. Elizabeth Drinker’s husband and sons had been using the shower for a year before she agreed to give it a try. Women were considered the weaker sex, delicate and fragile compared to men. The streams of water were widely felt to be harmful to women. Home décor authority Charles E. White wrote in 1914 that "……some constitutions cannot stand the rigors of shower bathing, a practice which should be resorted to only under the advice of a physician." Until well into the 1930’s few women showered, so there were few showers within the home. People bathed. Of course, there were households that didn’t mind paying extra to get a shower installed.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvC9Y-sqLiyXWzWyrXqqbO_pS7k5jTa6PHpIL1oKpFM7c50AWF6FnYYyUMPZURSd3bq7dxWNAIKjj7KIJV8vsNOsKYdzDbS7Kd-O7j62R2Iu89YWIIEfl-G2Ajaawk0Wzm6Z5rgV8PE8/s1600-h/214599105_15073d80d9.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvC9Y-sqLiyXWzWyrXqqbO_pS7k5jTa6PHpIL1oKpFM7c50AWF6FnYYyUMPZURSd3bq7dxWNAIKjj7KIJV8vsNOsKYdzDbS7Kd-O7j62R2Iu89YWIIEfl-G2Ajaawk0Wzm6Z5rgV8PE8/s320/214599105_15073d80d9.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031906042392616066" /></a><br /><em> an example of one kind of Victorian shower, fill the can first</em>.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhUjT5mVvu8vsxCDcLK5uWcmHBJ5vYtH892DaccgqJmrKzoNbZS1VHKeSswMZN4xZMvLvs4H-t5qtP8g-ecP69WYTQ8L80znT1kbvz9E5FyssyDh-QW6GdlWJb_VbXowJRHro2ANOlS50/s1600-h/214599067_281009113c.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhUjT5mVvu8vsxCDcLK5uWcmHBJ5vYtH892DaccgqJmrKzoNbZS1VHKeSswMZN4xZMvLvs4H-t5qtP8g-ecP69WYTQ8L80znT1kbvz9E5FyssyDh-QW6GdlWJb_VbXowJRHro2ANOlS50/s320/214599067_281009113c.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031906669457841298" /></a><br /><br /><em>the rest of the tiny bathroom<br />This is an example of a bathroom that was merely a cubby off the upstairs hall, in which a gentleman could have a very quick shower and a shave.</em><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQJMdcxsBjfieUnXHKPzj-tK-nfK2W4kjwk3QR059s0jRoaEEglsnGY5xGEYqnawrVePHIZeWtBMUNbgW_lfvEZYUd08QDR6FK6XvXorjYgnVCWiSPz7PwrWV8AkRIxMpSOmmyqg67Ks/s1600-h/115548233_423c4dbb1a.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQJMdcxsBjfieUnXHKPzj-tK-nfK2W4kjwk3QR059s0jRoaEEglsnGY5xGEYqnawrVePHIZeWtBMUNbgW_lfvEZYUd08QDR6FK6XvXorjYgnVCWiSPz7PwrWV8AkRIxMpSOmmyqg67Ks/s320/115548233_423c4dbb1a.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031914576492633250" /></a><br /><em> by the way, here's the commode in the same house</em><br /><br />Following is a segment on the bath from the book <strong>Manners, Culture and Dress</strong>, published in 1890.<br /><br />In most of our houses in the city there is a separate bath room with hot and cold water, but country houses are not always so arranged. A substitute for the bath-room is a large piece of oilcloth, which can be laid upon the floor of the ordinary dressing-room. Upon this may be placed the bath-tub or basin.<br />There are various kinds of baths, both hot and cold, the douche, the shower-bath, the hip-bath and the sponge-bath. <br />We do not bathe to make ourselves clean; but to keep clean, and for the sake of its health-giving and invigorating effects. Once a week a warm bath, at about 100°, may be used, with plenty of soap, in or der to thoroughly cleanse the pores of the skin.<br /><br />A douche or hip-bath may be taken every morning, winter and summer, with the temperature of the water suited to the endurance of the individual. In summer a second or sponge-bath may be taken on retiring.<br />Only the most vigorous constitutions can endure the shower-bath, therefore it cannot be recommended for indiscriminate use.<br />After these baths a rough towel should be vigorously used, not only to help remove the impurities of the skin, but for the beneficial friction which will send a glow oyer the whole body. The hair glove or flesh-brush may be used to advantage in the bath before applying the towel.<br />Before stepping into the bath the head should be wet with cold water, and in the bath the pit of the stomach should first be sponged.<br />There is no danger to most people from taking a bath in a state of ordinary perspiration. But one should by all means avoid it if fatigued or overheated.<br /><br />Next in importance to the water-bath is the air bath. Nothing is so conducive to health as an exposure of the body to air and sun. A French physician has recommended the sun-bath as a desirable hygienic practice. It is well, therefore, to remain without clothing for some little time after bathing, performing such duties of the toilet as can be done in that condition.grazhinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06836627685617280750noreply@blogger.com0